Customer Questions and Answers for Lid Switch Assembly by Whirlpool

Katie, it would be recommended that the out-of-balance lever 22001136 be checked to identify if it is stuck in the out-of-balance position. If it is, it should be able to adjust back into place. If it is not stuck, the most likely failure would be in the switch assembly WP22001682.

Darlene, You will want to test to make sure that there is power to the water valve and if there is not then check the pressure switch hose to make sure that it is not clogged and check the pressure switch. If there is power then the valve would be the issue.

Nemo, You will want to test the lid switch on the washer as this would be a likely cause for the unit to not spin or agitate. Also, check the wiring as there could be a pinched or broken wire.

Edward B, Based on the information provided one of the common causes for this issue with a blown fuse is an off balance load causing the lid switch and the check switch to both be closed at the same time, causing the fuse to blow. I would also check the switches to make sure one is not sticking as well.

Pat, You will want to test the lid switch assembly for this issue. The lid switch will be the most likely cause for the unit to not spin or agitate.

Hello Larry, If the motor will run with the belt removed, this could be a transmission issue. If not, the issue is most likely contacts in the timer that have failed. If the motor does not run with the belt removed, check the speed switch. If no problem there, check the pressure switch from terminal 7 to terminal 16. If there is no continuity, replace the pressure switch.

Hello E.J., You will first need to verify the lid lock assembly operation. If this is good, remove the main front and check the motor start relay. The motor run relay is·the top relay of the two relays mounted along the left cabinet flange of the washer. It is a single-pole, single-throw type and when energized completes the line one feed from the lid switch to the motor. Both the lid switch and the run relay must be closed for power to reach the motor. To check relay unplug both washer and dryer power cords. 1. Remove wires from the run relay. 2. Measure resistance of relay coil across small terminals (yellow/black to gray). Resistance should be approximately 490 ohms. An infinite reading indicates an open coil and requires the relay to be replaced. 3. Reinstall coil wires (smaller terminals). 4. Connect ohmmeter across larger terminals. 5. Reconnect dryer power cord (leave washer unplugged). CAUTION: The following is a live voltage check. Use appropriate care. 6. Program the spin cycle by pressing the SPIN pad. The relay should be energized and the ohmmeter should show zero ohms resistance (continuity). If relay pulls in but ohmmeter does not show continuity, relay contacts have failed and the relay should be replaced. 7. If the relay does not pull in, measure DC voltage across the coil. If no voltage, check microprocessor or wiring. If 24VDC is measured, replace the relay. As a note, you may also want to check the pressure switch. To check water level control: 1. Unplug both washer and dryer power cords. 2. Remove edge board connector. 3. Check for continuity as follows: Empty - should show continuity 1-3 and 4-5. Small - should show continuity 4-5 only. Medium - should show continuity 1-2 and 4-5. Large - should show continuity 1-2, 1-3 and 4-5. Overflow - will show no continuity 4-5. NOTE: Contact numbering begins with No. 1 furthest to the right in the bank of three contacts and Contact No.5 furthest to the left in the bank of two contacts.

Larry, based on the information provided, the pause in the cycle would be from the timer WP22003362 not operating properly.

This does sound like a lid switch issue to me also, here is our part number for the lid switch assembly { AP6006235

Connie, You will want to test the lid switch on the unit which would be the most likely cause for this issue.