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Vent plug insert for bottom-mount refrigerators. Replaces missing, cracked, or broken vent plugs. Installs in refrigerator cabinet openings.
Usually ships within 4 - 14 days
Compressor won't start or cycles on and off? This overload protector prevents motor damage from electrical surges. Direct replacement part.
Directs airflow from the evaporator fan to cooling coils in your refrigerator. Replace if cracked, broken, or missing to restore proper air circulation.
White plastic corner cover cap for refrigerators. Replaces cracked, broken, or missing corner trim pieces. Snaps into place on cabinet corners.
Replace your refrigerator's temperature control knob. Mounts to the control panel. Order a new knob if yours is cracked, broken, or missing.
Replaces the freezer control module housing on your refrigerator. Needed when the original cover is cracked, broken, or missing, leaving internal components exposed.
This replacement screw fastens internal components and panels so parts stay secure and quiet. It's a direct-fit fastener used where the original mounting screw is missing or damaged to restore proper assembly. What it does:
This drive coupling connects the washer motor to the transmission, transferring power to spin and agitate the tub. Replacing a worn coupling restores proper drivetrain engagement and reduces slipping, grinding, or loss of agitation. What it does:
Fix an air conditioner that won't start, respond to settings, or control temperature properly. This control manages cooling functions and user inputs.
Replacement mounting screw for refrigerators and freezers. Secures internal components and panels. Order a new screw if original is stripped or missing.
Replacement screw for securing panels, brackets, and trim pieces on appliances. Needed when original fasteners are stripped, missing, or damaged.
Fix a freezer that won't turn on or respond to controls with this push-button switch. Restores reliable on/off operation when buttons fail or stick.
The lid light in my chest freezer wasn't working because its poorly designed and routed power cable broke off at the lid plug from repeated flexing. Rather than spend half what I paid for the freezer on a replacement cable, I replaced the proprietary 3-pin socket in the back of the lid with a much better IEC standard C320 3-pin socket, then spliced in a new cable with a right-angle IEC plug, routed to allow it plenty of room to flex without kinking. This required taking the lid apart to... Read more