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Quite a challanging repair - as many components corroded. Tube spin seal rubber boot failed, water leaked into shielded bearing. Replaced Bearing (shielded, not sealed - shame on you Maytag... Grrr!) & Tub seal. Used heat gun + pipe wrench to seperate large plastic parts, Automotive pressurised gasket eliminator (like Cheese Whiz) used to replace all gaskets. Runs like new now. Note - Use a fish spring scale to measure spin drum tq (to verify Transmission drag clutch is OK). Measure the drum... Read more
Used the tool i purchased to remove stubborn brake assembly it worked great Read more
Lower brake bearing
I first replaced the two drive belts and the motor springs. That didn't fix it although they did need replacing. I then replaced the two bearings and the brake assy. The washer runs like new. If you replace the brake assembly, you should also replace the bearings. It will save a tear down later on. The Maytag repairman wanted $600.00 dollars to do the job. I did it for less than $200.00. Read more
Found the wonderful parts diagrams you most generously share online and a couple of YouTube videos . I determined it should be repairable. In my cast the agitator shaft was frozen (rusted) in place. I was very fortunate to have been able to eventually remove it with the use of a lot of BP penetrating oil and heat. Long and short the replacement parts fit perfectly and the washer is running like new. Special thanks to the online support make my repair possible. Read more
Using your video then calling Tina, who researched a part I had that wasn't in video or parts list. She had me send in a picture and researched then called me back. The part was redesigned. She was very helpful. Read more