Whirlpool 285868 Washer Filter Plug Kit OEM Part

I had previously replaced the pump about 1 year ago. That was not the problem. Still leaked the same way - intermittently, but always in the center of the washer onto the floor. None of the hoses were leaking - no evidence of corrosion or water mineral residue at any of the hose fittings. So, it must have been something else. I studied the parts diagram for the washer tub assembly and concluded the source of the leak almost had to be the outer tub's Centerpost Gasket. It was really the only part left that came in direct contact with water in the otherwise sealed outer tub. Gonna backtrack a little here... When I was checking for leaks before and after I swapped out the pump (about 1-1/2 years ago), I noticed the rear lower frame of the machine was almost totally rusted out and the Suspension Spring was was about to rust through also. I had some 2" angle aluminum in my garage, so I cut a section of that about the width of the machine and pop-riveted it to the machine back panel with the angle facing inward. That did the trick and completely reinforced that lower section of the washer. It also gave me solid metal to drill a new hole for the suspension spring. The point here is not the innovative repair - the point is that the machine had been leaking for a long time and rusted out the lower rear frame and suspension spring! (The actual visible water on the concrete floor only manifested itself about a year and a half ago, but based on the extensive rust, it had to have been leaking much longer than that.) Back to fixing the leak...I ordered the parts from Appliance Parts Pros. (I rebuilt the agitator section too, with a new Medium Cam Agitator Repair Kit. This had nothing to do with the leak, but since I was taking the whole thing apart anyway...) The main components I ordered for the leak were the Centerpost Gasket and Spanner Wrench. I also ordered a new Suspension Spring because the old one was just about rusted through. I followed some instructional videos on how to remove the inner basket from the outer tub. The spanner wrench was an absolute necessity. Once I got the inner tub out, I removed the old style filter on the bottom of the inner tub and cleaned it up thoroughly. (I replaced the old style filter with the new Washer Filter Plug Kit - four small plastic filters that fit in the four large holes in the inner tub. The holes were a little too large for the plugs to stay snug, so I super-glued them in.) I then removed the outer tub by sliding it up the centerpost. Cleaned it up thoroughly also. That's when I noticed the triangular frame to which the motor/transmission assembly was attached was rusting severely at each of its three corners. One corner had rusted through. This is evidence of a Centerpost Gasket leak, as all this rust was above the water pump. In order to curtail any more rusting on the triangular frame, I knocked out all of the loose rust and scrapped the rest of it to remove as much rust as possible. In each of the three corners, there is a downward-facing "bowl" in the metal frame where the support posts extend upward. These "bowls" had been collecting water for years, hence the extensive rust. To combat the rust and prevent any further rust I heated up the hot glue gun and I must have used (5) 12-inch sticks of hot glue to fill in the bowls, cover up all the rust, and actually made them convex so water will run outward and not get trapped if it ever leaks again. Whew! I then used 0000 steel wool on the centerpost to remove some minor corrosion so the new gasket would seal. I placed a small amount of silicon grease on the centerpost where the gasket will seat. I then pressed the new gasket into the outer tub and applied silicon grease on the inside so it would slide into place without sticking on the way down (about 12 inches). I seated the tub and secured it. I installed the new Suspension Spring. I reinstalled the inner tub and cinched it down snugly with the spanner wrench. Reinstalled the newly rebuilt agitator and snugged down its retaining bolt. Reinstalled the washer body and set the spring clips. Hooked up the water and drain line and crossed my fingers. My wife did laundry the next day. No leaks. It's now been right at a month and many laundry loads later...no leaks!!! Yay! Project took me about 5 hours including the hot gluing and extreme cleaning of all the parts.

First off I have to say that Appliance Parts Pro's saved me from hiring a repair person, and quite possibly just getting rid of my washing machine. Their video's helped out SOOOOOOOO much and the advice one of their agents gave me over their online chat helped me trouble shoot something when I got stuck. On top of this they shipped my parts fast enough that less than 12 hrs later they arrived, which allowed me to get my machine up and running way faster than the other options I had available. When we purchased and moved into our house it came with a 10yr old washer/dryer which was working fine so we didn't replace them. After the first few uses we realized that the washing machine smelled absolutely foul. We tried using vinegar and other cleaning solutions to fix the foul smell and all it ever did was cover up the real problem for a few days or weeks. With the help of google we were able to learn that the real problem was built up residue, mold, rust and matted in pet hair. The repair involved removing the inner and outer tub and all of the hoses. The 2 tubs and the hoses were cleaned with a power washer outside and finished off with by hand with cleaning rags and a household cleaner/degreaser. The motor/rest of the machine were vacuumed and wiped down as well. Once everything was cleaned the machine was put back together again. The hardest part of the repair (besides the disgusting cleaning) was separating the inner and outer tub from each other. Our machine was about 10yrs old and the two tubs were fused together by rust, gunk and calcium. I watched the following YouTube video to get them separated: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r6iyR8KcqMQ It's important to remember that there's a good chance you'll need to order replacement parts once you have it apart and can see everything up close. I ordered a couple replacements such as the outer tub ring seal, and new springs. If I had ordered replacement hoses it would've saved time during the cleaning stage. All in all the repair wasn't overly difficult, but it was time consuming. That said I can't even imagine how much it would've cost for an appliance repair person to do the repair, and I'm certain that they wouldn't have been as meticulous as I was. I hope this review helps someone else out :)

Entered model # in the search box, looked up a list of symptoms and concluded the problem between the motor and transmission. Looked at repair videos, removed the motor/transmission according to the video, and found the motor-transmission coupling broken. In disassembling the washer found it needed additional parts: agitator dogs and filter plugs While waiting for parts removed inner tub, (just like in the video) used a small pipe wrench and rubber mallet to remove the spanner nut and lifted out the inner tub. Removed old washer filter from the bottom by detaching tabs from inside of the center tube (not easy) and found rust between the plastic filter and metal tub (probably the reason that type of filter was discontinued) Cleaned outer tub and agitator parts with hose and brush. Unlike the original coupling which was all plastic, the replacement coupling has a metal insert. When first installed coupling didn't slip far enough onto the two shafts so when the motor was installed, clips were difficult to attach and when I managed, the motor shaft wouldn't turn. Removed the motor and gently drove the coupling parts onto the motor shaft and transmission shaft with a punch and rubber hammer (apply punch to metal, not plastic, socket might work better). Move the couplings to the full length of the flats on the shafts. Then reinstalled the pump and clips. Originally installed the motor was backward so electrical connections and pump hoses did not match. No problem, detach the motor clips and turn it 180 degrees and reinstall the clips. Cleaned the transmission shaft and coated it lightly with new grease, slid it back into the center hole, but had to shake and tap it some to get the transmission mounts aligned and seated, then reinstalled the bolts. Reattached electrical connections (don't forget capacitor wires) and reattached hoses to the pump. Re-installed agitator parts exactly like the video. Lost the agitator bolt although somehow I kept the rubber washer. Got a 5/16-24 x 1" flange head cap screw from Advance Auto (4 for about $4.50). Whole job more involved than I expected, but the videos described it perfectly. The washer was definitely worth fixing.

I ordered the washer filter plug kit ,I discovered mine were completely gone .

Disassembled the machine and replaced the defective parts.