How to Troubleshoot & Replace Whirlpool AP6017650 / WPW10244639 Cooktop Infinite Switch

Had to replace the switch for the left rear burner on a Whirlpool cooktop Model W5CE3625AB00. I turned off the circuit breaker for the cooktop and lifted it out of the countertop. It was simply held down by its own weight. There were approximately a dozen screws holding the smooth surface down onto the rest of the unit. I removed those screws, which allowed the cooking surface to lift back on a hinge in the back of the unit. Two of those screws were stripped, but I was able to remove them with a pair of pliers. I then had to remove several screws which held a bracket in place over all of the switches. I then removed several more screws to remove a metal box that covered all of the switches and their wiring. I carefully turned that box over and was then able to pull out the switch that I wanted to replace. It had two plastic pieces which plugged into the back of the switch. The wires were permanently attached to these plastic plugs. I used a flat head screw driver to carefully pry the plastic pieces loose. That then allowed me to remove the switch. I then performed all of the steps in reverse order - plug two plastic pieces into the switch, put the switch back in its place and attach it to the metal box with two screws, attach the metal box back to the cook top with 4 more screws, attach the bracket over the metal box with 3 screws, and finally attach the cooking surface to the rest of the unit with 12 screws. I had to undo everything when I realized that I had missed two small details. The original switch had a soft rubber type piece that covered the top of it, which was like a thin insulator to keep metal from touching metal. That piece is thin and easy to miss. I had to go back and place that piece over the new switch. It simply slid over the post for the knob and sat squarely over the new switch. I also had to re-align the metal box when attaching it back to the cook top, so that it slid precisely between two pair of rubber tabs that also prevented metal from touching metal. The moral of the story is to not get in a hurry, as small details like the rubber pieces could be easily missed when re-assembling the unit. I also had to re- attach some wires to the wall that came loose from pulling on the unit to get it out of the counter top and onto a work surface. It would be wise to mark all wiring before starting, so that you know where everything went if wiring comes loose during the repair. It would also be wise to put a solid cover over your counter top. The bottom of the cook top unit has screws sticking out of it, which could scratch the surface of an unprotected counter top. I tested all of the burners after turning on the circuit breaker. Everything worked fine. I completed the repair a week ago and have used the cook top every day since then, with no issues. 

I replaced the temperature control for the right front burner. 

Changing the infinite switch 

A new infinite burner switch took care of the problem. 

I replaced both the controls for my two front burners. One on the left was my large burner, and right was a dual zone also with a simmer control. Turn of circuit breaker to stove top. Pull off knobs on old switches and remove rubber grommet. Using a Philips head remove the two screws located above and below switch post. Under the stovetop, remove the 8 1/4” screws to access the bottom of the switches. I actually left one corner in and just spun it out of the way. Your switches will drop down since you already removed screws. Unplug the wires, which are actually grouped together in white housings. Take pics first just in case. Housings can be difficult to unplug. Take your time and gently pry from multiple points with a flathead screwdriver. Plug in new switches. Swap the rubber gasket/cover from the top of old switches to new and hold it up from the bottom while you reinstall the two Philip head screws. May need a helper depending on which switch you are changing. I was able to reach and hold both front burner switches while I put screws in. I did not remove my unit to repair. Replace grommet and knobs. Close access below and turn power back on. Worked great. Took 15 minutes to change both, but I am handy with tools. I think anyone could change one switch in 20 minutes. You can really see the difference in how well it regulates heat. Makes me wonder how long they had been going out before they finally completely failed. 

Replaced the switch 

Replaced burner infinite switch as suggested by several diagnostic videos 

Ordered a new infinite switch and replaced it. 

Took the old one out, put the new one in. 

Replaced the burner switch.