Frigidaire 134503600 Dryer Drum Belt OEM Part

I found a video on Youtube which described dryer drum squeaks as most likely caused by a worn rear drum bearing. I located the model number on the inside lip of the dryer door: Frigidaire Affinity LEQ6000ES2. I googled "frigidaire affinity dryer squeak". I got a link for my friends at AppliancePartsPros.com! I've used Appliance PartsPros 3 times before, so I figured I was in a "one-stop-solution" situation. I ordered a rear drum bearing kit as well as a dryer drum belt (after nearly 7 years of heavy use, I figured it would make sense to replace that as well. Everything arrived within 2 days of order, as usual, APP is very prompt. After receiving the parts, I watched a video here on Appliance PartsPros showing how to replace the rear drum bearing. I followed the procedure closely, as my dryer was very similar to the one shown in the video. It took about 2.5 hours to complete, including the extensive lint-cleaning I did while the dryer was disassembled. The only tricky parts: 1) reassembling the frame: it was tough to get the screw holes of the frame pieces to line up after being apart: I mean really tough. 2) tapping the threads for the new ball hitch was more difficult than I thought it would be. I had to use a power screwdriver to power two of them in as the manual screwdriver bit was just slipping out of the screw head when I tried to muscle them in by hand. I found that the gasket on the blower wheel assembly is getting pretty tattered, I'll be replacing that very soon. If your dryer is over 5 years old, you may want to consider getting that to start with.

My 12 year old Frigidaire stack on top dryer had been beeping distress messages in some unintelligible code for about a year when it completely stopped producing heat. It also had a long standing issue with delicate fabrics and thin straps or drawstrings getting caught in the drum. After using this site to troubleshoot and viewing the useful how-to videos, I ordered and replaced the heating element, thermal limiter, and felt seals. Based on others' stories, I decided to also replace the rear drum bearing and belt while I had it disassembled, and due to the advanced age of my machine. I knew that the beeping was probably indicative of a bad control panel, but chose to replace the cheaper parts first in hopes of avoiding that expense. Despite my complete lack of repair experience, I was able to easily take apart the machine and replace all the parts using common household tools. It was obvious that the old parts I replaced were worn or damaged and in need of repair. Unfortunately, the dryer still did not produce heat when reassembled. But good news: I had found a sheet taped to the inside of my machine that described the diagnostic test procedure and error codes. Once I followed these instructions, I was able to identify the last problem as "error code 62", the control panel. I ordered the last part and was able to install it in about 20 minutes using the video on this site. Now my dryer works like new, without eating my clothes and without all the beeping! Total cost of this overhaul was about 1/3 the price of a new dryer. Happy customer!

This is how to replace the dryer belt on a combination washer/dryer: FRIGIDAIRE model FEX831CS0 FIRST: Unplug the thing!!!! I also turned off the breaker. I pulled out the washer/dryer from the wall and removed the square vented panel in the back lower right corner. Of course this was after spending about an hour cleaning the wall, the baseboards, and the floor behind the appliance since it had been 6 years since it was installed. This is another reason why I like to fix things myself! Repairmen don't clean -- and really don't want to give you timer to clean either! Anyway... after removing the panel in back I could see that the dryer belt was indeed broken and I pulled it out. I compared it to the new belt just to make sure I got the right part. Then I vacuumed inside everywhere I could reach. I had read another review on here and knew I needed to remove the front of the dryer in order to fit the belt over the drum so that comes next. I got a chair and removed the 4 screws holding the front of the dryer to the top. I then realized that I would have to remove the control panel below before I could get the front of the dryer off. I removed the two screws holding the slanting blank panel below the control panel, and then lifted it off. Then I removed six screws holding the control panel on -- I'm not sure I had to remove all six of these -- but I did. There was one small screw on each side and then two larger screws on each side. The panel then dropped out forward. I didn't want to break or cut any of the wires on the sharp metal below, so I had to prop this control panel up on a big soft bag while I worked on the dryer front above. After removing two screws that were exposed (one on each side) when I removed the control panel, the front of the dryer came off towards me and the drum dropped down. This is the scary part! I wasn't sure I could hold everything together and get the belt over the drum at the same time -- all while standing on a chair. But I did!! It went surprisingly well and everything fitted back together pretty easily with some juggling. I made sure the belt was not twisted and pushed it towards the back before I repositioned the drum against the dryer front. The screws went back in and I had to take a break and be amazed for a minute -- hard part done! I forgot -- of course I vacuumed and cleaned everything I could see from the front as it was exposed. Lots of lint in there. Reattached the control panel next. Around in the back I maneuvered the belt to its worn place in the back of the drum, made sure it was not twisted, and pulled the (idler?) pulley back and fitted the belt around the motor drive thingy (can't remember what to call all these parts!). There is a picture somewhere on this site I think showing how this should go, but it is pretty straightforward. The other review I read did give me the hint that the pulley pushes against the OUTSIDE (the non-ribbed) part of the belt, which helped. Flipped back on the breaker and plugged it back up. Hit the switch to turn on the dryer and TAH DAH --- success!!!! Watched the belt in back and it looked like it was working correctly. It was squeaking slightly so I put one or two drops (only!) of 3-in-1 oil on the idler pulley. I don't think this is the correct thing to use to grease, but it was all I had and it fixed the problem of the small squeak. Unplugged everything again and reattached the louvered back panel and the slanting front panel. Then I dried some clothes!!!!! The clothesline is going to get a break until warmer weather!!! I hope this helps someone, as I was helped by some earlier reviews. I especially hope this inspires some WOMEN to fix their own stuff. The feeling of satisfaction is HUGE and the cost savings almost as big. YOU CAN DO IT! This took me almost 3 hours because of all the cleaning, but also because I learned from watching my Dad (who could fix ANYTHING!!!) that the best way to work is mindfully and very carefully. THANKS DAD ;-) Julia I

The very easy diagnosis was motor seizure. Because the machine is about a decade old, I decided to renovate most of the guts. My DIY project included replacing the motor, blower, drum bearing, belt, and door hinge. The end result is a functional dryer with no left-over parts. Lack of parts and hardware challenged the effort. For example, the blower assembly did not have the slide capture for the motor. I had to use the old one which is showing its age. With the exception of the drum bearing kit, no parts come with any replacement hardware. I found during disassembly that a few screws were completely missing (lost to antiquity I suppose). So, multiple trips to the garage sifting through my hardware stash consumed time. Once assembled (motor and blower) the blower housing did not align with the blower fan. I had to shim the blower housing with two # 12 washers to make the new motor/blower assembly work. Of course that time-consuming process required trial-and-error and naturally longer screws. I ordered the door glide thinking that I was ordering the complete guide. Nope. You need to order two of them. So replacing the glide will be for another time. Installing the other parts was mostly intuitive. My suggestions for an extensive appliance repair job are as follows. Be sure you read the APP description for every part you are ordering. Understand that what's NOT specifically listed is probably NOT included -even critical items not firmly attached to the assembly you're ordering (like hardware, clips, clamps, etc). Accumulate an assortment of #8 and #12 sheet metal screws (1/2 inch to 3/4 inch long) before starting any appliance repair project. Use a small fishing lure box to keep the screws sorted for re installation. The actual DIY project is relatively easy, but missing screws and ill-fitting parts add challenge. Take it slow. Do not consider it an evening project unless you enjoy hands-on frustration just before going to bed.

Replaced control board. Did not need Control Thermistor in my case, but I'm keeping it as backup. Got the Drum Belt just in case it breaks on me since the dryer is aging. To replace control board: Disconnect power and pull dryer away from wall. Take 2 black screws on the back off to remove the top lid. Remove 2 screws on top that hold the control interface on. Remove 2 screws on the bottom backside of the control. Pull out control panel and pull off terminal connections and push to remove PCB connections. Pry up on the outer edges of the control panel to release and separate the control board. Push button springs will want to slip off, so be mindful and keep a magnet handy to catch anything that falls (work on the control interface AWAY from dryer so it's easy to find anything that falls. Move over clear LED diffusers and control shaft. Do not rotate control shaft and pay attention to line up your old and new controls so that they match. (You can use a medium flat screw driver to turn your new control board so that it is in the same cycle as your old one). The heat setting should be either all the way up to High and will have the spring on the top side. Line up shafts and reassemble controls. Restore electrical connections and reattach screws. Its an easy job, but if you don't do this every day you may have to hook up and test to make sure the controls got aligned correctly. Other notes: Cycle selector shaft and plastic led diffusers had to be transferred. Don't turn cycle selector or you will have to re-sync them to match like I did.