Ge WB24K10074 Harness Burner Box OEM Part

Cleaned/ soaked all burners in Ammonia and scraped off the remaining with a pumice stone. Oiled all screws. Replaced (4) ignitors or electrodes and module kit/ right front burner/ burner switch harness. Although this was the third order of switches from 3 different places including the local supplier due to the switches being manufactured upside down and lit on low on the first attempt. (Since I was going to have to open it up again to either repair or remove and return the upside-down harness I ordered the module kit and burner since I didn't want to come back a third time for a failed or weak module). Yes, backward switches. Long story short realizing I won't be able to find the right part but these were the correct part number for this model with the right connector. I decided to carefully remove each switch from the wires and flip them upside down on the harness after being told by the local shop that the inner cams would not work backward. It did work. The third switch didn't seat in the black case completely so I had to reseat the wire again. Took me 1 hour to flip them upside down to fit and work correctly (before) the actual repair. I touched up small nicks with appliance paint. Cooktop looks and works well as new. The local shop wanted $390.00 to do this job and suggested buying a new stove. I'm sure he would not have gone to the lengths that I did flipping the switches and the repair would have failed. I think spent about 2 hundred plus 5 hours total (2) cleaning. On a 30-1hr burner switch job. At least it came out working and looking nice. My parents were happy they didn't have to buy a new stove and said it looked brand new after I was done. I decided to order from this site because the electrode kit came with the module for the same price as only the switches cost at the local shop. So I got a new module with the kit. That was a plus and extra insurance that I wouldn't have to go a third time for weak or no spark. With that savings, I added the burner to the purchase in case I didn't have time to clean. The module was black and longer but there was a perfect cutout on the aluminum cutout that it snaps into. The right front burner is used the most and the original seemed to not seat flush on my first botched upside-down switch attempt (my dad said cooking his eggs on low it was ticking constantly) in between the second and final repair. I have a Frigidaire that is similar to their GE and like keeping it simple with ovens due to these occasional curveballs thrown in on simple repairs. They should last a long time with the occasional repair. I like to disassemble and clean the cooktop, and oil the screws, to avoid rusted snapped screws which is the worst part of cooktop repairs. That keeps the repairs down to about an hour. to 30 minutes for burner switches and 30-minute oven igniter which is the most common repairs for a standard gas range. These parts did the trick even with the bass-ak-ward switch harness on this model.

Replaced igniter module and wiring harness and also replaced the igniter wiring and switch assembly that connects to each burner control. The main problem was in the igniter itself which was not delivering the spark for the 2 left side burners. Biggest problem was removal of the cooktop but found an excellent video on YouTube which helped considerably. You will need the star type security tool for many of the screws, only a few are phillips type.

Two parts were broken: harness burner box and valve burner. My husband changed the parts.