Ge WB27X10858 Display Control Board OEM Part

First I replaced the flickering digitron after reading elsewhere that it may be just a weak display. The new digit on was still flickering but a little differently. Our oven was still working with either display until suddenly it wasn't one morning. After finding AppliancePartsPros and reading that others had to go further by replacing the transformer and power boards, that's when I looked closer at those parts. There was some smoke evidence on the cover over the transformer and the back of two PCBs didn't look as good as the rest. I ended up replacing the Power Board (WB27X10861 / AP3882298), Sub Asm Power Board (WB27X10858 / AP3883396), and the Transformer (WB17X10021 / AP3883205). My old digitron/display may have still been good but I stuck with the new one. I didn't do any actual testing of the old parts, but the visual evidence was enough. As mentioned elsewhere, this is a very DIY job with patience and basic tools. The trickiest part was routing wires. My old power board had lower profile connectors that layed flat on it. The new board's harness connections are perpendicular to the board, but with some careful wire routing, everything still fits fine. Everything works as it should now. The total of almost $600 in parts was pricey but still altogether way cheaper than a new high-end microwave/convection oven for $2400. The very fast shipping helped take some of the sting out of the cost too. I ordered on a Thursday and the parts arrived Saturday. I'm glad I found AppliancePartsPros.com.

Symptoms: on screen display intermittent and sometimes not readable, oven would lock up every few days and not be usable until breaker was reset First I just ordered the Digitron (Part #WB27X10856) and that helped for a few weeks but then the oven/mw started locking up and the only way to get it to work was reset the breaker. Ordered both of these Pwb(pcb)Asm Sub (Part #WB27X10858) and (Part #WB27X10861) and that fixed the problem entirely. Installation was relatively easy - phillips screwdriver was all I needed. Took about 20-25 minutes. Most tedious part was threading the wiring harness back in which was still fairly quick. Take your time and anyone can get the installation done.

After reading several posts on this sight I found the description that most matched my problem. I ordered the parts recommended and replaced them. I prayed first because it looked a little overwhelming but I do believe the Lord heard my prayers and the parts replacement went well. I plugged her in and reset the breaker and it worked like a charm. When I reset the clock the time was 3:16 ( as in John 3:16, I believe that was the Lord letting me know He heard me and helped me.

I purchased this microwave Model#: SCB1001MSS in 2008. It has always worked perfectly until about a year ago. The display started flickering and then would not work at all until I turned off the breaker and then back on again. This started happening more and more often until I just figured I would need to buy a new microwave oven. When I did a search of the problem I was having along with the model # of my microwave, It took me to AppliancePartsPros.com I found out that many other people had the same problem I was having. I am thankful that many people wrote about the parts they needed to fix their problems. Here are the parts I ordered that fixed the problem I had. Power Board WB27X10861 / AP3882298 Pwb (pcb) Asm Sub WB27X10858 / AP3883396 Transformer Power WB17X10021 / AP3883205 I hope this will be of help to others also! The hardest part was lifting the 75 pound microwave out of the built in cabinet it was in. (I had to have a neighbour help me with that).

GE Advantium 120 microwave/convection oven, manufactured March 2008. Worked great every day for 14 years. Then the display flickered and bounced all over. Replaced the digitron. No joy. The keypad also stopped working and the appliance only hummed when power was restored (no matter how long the circuit breaker was turned off). Then nothing worked at all. Replaced the power board, the two power board sub-assemblies, the relay board, and the transformer (after 14 years, I figured if two or more major electronic parts failed, the others were likely to do so in the near future). The unit still looks brand new inside and out, and now works like it again for a fraction of the cost of replacing it (which would have been a waste) or paying someone to repair it.