Ge WB13K21 Oven Bake Igniter OEM Part

If the oven burner would not light but the broiler would this indicated that the safety valve is OK. Problem had to be with the igniter. Removed the bottom panel in the oven and restarted the oven. The igniter would not glow at all. It should be brilliant red. This is where the problem came in. I could not find the location of the model on the Kenmore range anywhere you would normally look - the back, the wiring envelope, the oven door jamb etc. Also the igniter cannot be removed from the burner without removing the burner from the oven. The some of the burner mounting screws and the electrical connector are underneath the oven and the drawer needs to be removed to do this. When the drawer is removed the model number tag is visible and then you can order the correct part. Removing the burner is simple. Remove on screw at the front of the burner inside the oven and two screws underneath and unplug the igniter. The burner pulls up and can be removed and the igniter can be replaced after removing two screws. Reinstalling the burner was easy but the electrical connector would not mate even though the connector on the igniter looked identical to the original. It turns out that the pins inside the connector are female instead of male as in the original igniter. The easiest thing to do is cut the connectors off the igniter and the oven wiring harness and use a pair of crimp connectors (butt splices) to make the connection. I turned the oven on and the igniter glowed brilliant red and after a few seconds the safety valve opened and the burner lit. After shutting it off the drawer and bottom panel were replaced and the wife made some cookies.

My oven wouldn't light. I saw a glow but no ignition. My burners worked the broiler worked so I thought the thermostat was defective. I started an Internet search for similar symptoms and ran across videos and blogs mentioning and sponsored by AppliancePartsPros.com. Consensus among the sites I visited was that the igniter was defective. I went to the AppliancePartsPros website and others listing the same part to insure I was ordering the correct part. Initially I was going to get it locally thinking I would get it faster without a shipping charge. What I discovered was that the retail cited by AppliancePartsPros was in fact lower than the price my local dealer was charging AppliancePartsProsNad was $70 cheaper!! I called to confirm that it was a genuine GE part. So, I went to the website, ordered the part, paid for the fastest shipping available, and the genuine GE part was delivered the NEXT DAY! Was I pleased. The video prepared me for the process despite having the same model but with different options - which ultimately affected removal of the igniter. One of the screws on the igniter was stripped but other than that, the process was unbelievably easy. I spent more time removing the grates, the door, the pots and pans from the drawer and shutting off the gas and electric than I did replacing the igniter. It was like 3/4 prep and replace and 1/4 repair. I've had prior experience with AppliancePartsPros and they are consistently Good - VERY GOOD. I highly recommend them.

It was dark and cold this autumn day and I was left alone with a new igniter and only a few hours to replace the old one. My son had begged off of helping me claiming his phobia of small enclosed spaces while my wife was off having our third child at hospital. I knew that if I could not get this repair done my wife could not bake her favorite casserole when she got home. know this i venture alone into the kitchen armed with the new igniter, a standard screw driver and 1/4 socket on my grandfathers 1/4 socket set. It was go time. I opened the oven door and removed it setting it aside on this blank I found by the door. I removed the racks to clear access to the floor of the oven. This was more difficult than I had expected since the racks are designed to stay inside the oven. Some quick torch work and they were removed. now the floor of the oven was held in by two screws that came out easily, unlike the racks. this exposed the old igniter and an intimidating tube thing that look to filled with holes. I took some time to fix the holes with bondo. The igniter was held together by two screws with machine threading and performed their job well. I lost them. The new igniter was easy to plug into the old connection after I removed that little plate. I lost that also. With everything together I buttoned it all back together made some new racks out of red oak and gave it a test run. My wife and I are sharing a hospital room while she recovers from the c section and I the skin grafs. Life is good. Our daughters name GEnee in honor of the stove. Thanks for the help

I was getting really frustrated with our oven. It would preheat to the correct temperature, then slowly lose heat until it was down to about 200 degrees. So it took about two hours to heat a pizza! Finally decided to repair the oven myself, rather than pay $300.00 to have a repair person come out. Ordered the replacement igniter from AppliancePartsPros.com, and it arrived in two days. I followed the instructional video on the AppliancePartsPros.com website, and it was going well until I took the bottom cover off of the oven. There was the igniter, but there was a non-removable shelf underneath, which prevented me from getting to the connection. So I moved the stove away from the wall and found that the back panel was a one-piece, held in place by about 30 screws. At this point, I figured that the manufacturer was not going to make it that difficult to replace the igniter, so I pulled the food warmer drawer all the way out, and there it was - the wiring connection! From there on, it was a piece of cake (pun intended). The wiring connection was a perfect fit (Thank you, AppliancePartsPros.com!), even though I had to lie on the floor to access it, and the new igniter was easy to screw into place. I replaced the bottom cover and tried the oven. The temperature held for the first time in ages! We celebrated the return of our oven by baking brownies. And they cooked in the correct amount of time - no more liquid brownies! Thank you, AppliancePartsPros.com, for your quick service and excellent price, and thank you for the instructional video, even though it wasn't completely applicable to my particular oven. The video got me started in the right direction and assured me that this was a job I could accomplish.

Our 18 Year old GE oven would not ignite. This is only the second time having to replace the igniter. The new version of the same oven is nice but it's also $750. The igniter from AppliancePartsPros.com is 7% of that cost. This weekend morning, I unplugged the stove, closed the gas valve, opened the oven, slid the removable door upwards & off from it hinges, pulled the two baking racks from the oven, used a standard screwdriver to remove the two fasteners from the rear of the stove drip pan, slid the drip pan towards the rear of the oven & upwards to free it from under the lip at the front of the oven opening, slid the broiler pan/drawer out about six inches to access the one 1/4" machine screw holding the heat shield that protects the wiring for the igniter, it slides up & to the right to remove, loosened the wire shield at the rear of the oven to access the ignitor connection, unplugged the igniter, removed the one 1/4" machine screw from the burner tube at the opening of the stove, removed the two 1/4" machine screws holding the burner pipe to the rear wall of the stove, slid the burner pipe upwards & off of the gas nozzle. Once the burner pipe & igniter are out of the oven I replaced the igniter that is held in place with two 1/4" machine screws. Reinstalled the burner pipe by holding it close to its mounting location, routed the new wires behind the burner tube between the tube & rear wall of the oven, connected the new igniter to the in-place harness, gently pushed the wires & connection into the opening at the rear of the oven, rolled the still fastened wire cover back over the opening, tightened the 1/4" machine screw, slid the burner pipe down over the gas nozzle, aligned the holes at the rear, hand tightened the machine screws, align the hole at the front of the burner pipe at the opening of the oven, installed the machine screw, tightened the assembly, reinstalled the heat shield by sliding the guide tab into the base of the oven & installing the one 1/4” machine screw that holds it in place, plugged the oven into the receptacle, turned on the gas valve, set the oven to 450 degrees, watched for the bright orange glow from the igniter, once up to ignition temperature the safety gas valve opened & there was a flame. Start to finish 15 minutes.