Ge WB24X449 Cooktop Selector Switch OEM Part

My cooktop repair was a total success from start to finish. I reviewed and later followed the APP repair video, which helped me decide if I wanted to tackle the repairs and guided me right before I started. The APP phone staff member was very helpful verifying the parts I had identified online using the model number of my older GE Profile cooktop to locate and view the correct online exploded view diagram. I told him it was a pleasure working with him. The parts arrived within 3 days of ordering them. The price I felt was typically high for GE parts, so no surprise there. Actually, the APP parts purchased were comparable if not slightly cheaper than those on the GE website even though they were OEM GE parts. The repairs took me about four hours because I like to take my time in new repairs (to me) and not make stupid errors requiring buying additional parts. I have done a good deal of repair of other equipment and have learned to observe carefully, think about the construction, and proceed with caution. The difficulties I had, related to the design of my older model cooktop compared to the cooktop repair of the video and the fact that I was dealing also with the rectangular vent chamber hanging from the bottom of the cooktop chassis which was different than the model in the video. Two issues concerned me: 1) the heating coils & ceramic coil housings could have been damaged during the repair by falling out of the chassis had I not temporarily taped them down to/into the chassis using blue masking tape. 2) replacement of the switches for my model required getting at them from underneath the chassis through all the other wiring. This access required tilting the chassis on a bench (but not turning it over and dropping out the coils and ceramic housings) and working at an angle in a dark enclosure. I photographed the wiring as recommended in another video for proper replacement, a step that was not necessary but was reassuring if I had gotten distracted from the job. Seeing into the switch enclosure required a bright lamp. On my GE model, some of the hex screws needed to be removed from the underside of the chassis to access a plate that held the switches, so I recommend using a magnetized hex wrench/driver. I had to improvise and used a small piece of tape to provide for a friction fit to hold the screws in my unmagnetized hex driver when replacing them. Once the switches were replaced, I could set the cooktop with the vent housing on my bench so that the coils would lie flat. I removed all the temporary tape. I then went to the glass cooktop, removed and cleaned the rubber switch seals (another APP video is available for that) and cleaned the cooktop surface at the switch holes, replaced the seals into the top and prepared to reassemble the top to the chassis and then the chassis to the counter. I am very pleased with the results.

I wasn't sure of the problem, but after reading a lot on appliancepartspros.com on my model and symptoms, I narrowed it down to the dual burner selector switch or the Dual element. I didn't have a lot of time to take everything apart to diagnose it, so I ordered both items. The parts came quickly and was competitively priced (Amazon was slightly cheaper, but didn't offer the same return policy). As a typical man, I didn't read the instructions, because I have an electronics and computer background. It was easy to take apart the top range, glass and metal housing containing the switches as well as the burner placeholders. I replaced both items just so I wouldn't have to worry about it again (it was broken for a few weeks and it really sucks trying to cook on the little burners with large pots) I cleaned all of the remaining switches and tested the new switch and burner for continuity with my multimeter. I did see a visible break in the heating element from the old part in the smaller coil of the dual burner set which was why it died in the first place. I put everything back together minus all the screws so I could test it and it worked like a charm. I put all the screws back in, remounted the glasstop and voila! Working burners again! What really helped was the comments and feedback on appliancepartspros.com site! Thank you thank you! NOTE: after putting everything back together and testing, I was about to throw away the instructions and instead I opened and read it, and it said that I needed to clip a center terminal, attach the wire that came in the new packaging with my replacement burner and rewire it. The new burner did have a different wiring config, but everything went back together without a hitch and my stovetop has been working for a few weeks now. I'm not sure why the instructions wanted me to clip a lead from the stove wiring and connect it to a service lead prior to installation of the new burner.... maybe someone can shed some light on this? Like I said, it has been working for a few weeks now with no issues. Should I rewire that burner as indicated?

By purchasing part from appliance parts pros. and we used the instruction video to help us to replace it ourselves. This was very well explained and helpful. Thank you for saving us $500.00, our usual repair company wanted to charge us for the entire switch and haliant burner assembly plus labor which would have cost $592.00. We appreciate the help and honesty received from Appliance parts pros. Thank you.

We ordered the parts and watched the help videos. It was "almost" exact in telling us what we needed to go. Our cooktop is 16 years old and had a ton of greasy buildup that had slowly gotten down into the knobs and was a sticky mess to undo. However the parts fit perfectly, and after 2 hours of careful "home engineering" we made it happen and everything works aweome now. My dad then decided to dissect the older switches, and proclaimed that we probably could have cleaned the connecters inside (oil / goo / corrosion) and they probably would have worked. (I'm glad we got the new switched, but I'm not dumb we saved the old ones!) I'm grateful for Google and some forum camping to find this website and spend 100 bucks to fix a 1600 cooktop. Blessings! Aaron

I replaced it with a new switch. My only complaint was with the price of the switch. I assume, though, that was not AppliancePartsPro's fault as they sold it for less than I could have obtained it locally.