Lg 6601ER1006F Pressure Switch Assembly (Water Level) OEM Part

Replaced the cold water valve unit (has 4 ports and 1 inlet) which is very straight forward; requires : 1 phillips screwdriver ~#2 1 needlenose plier, medium size 1 channel lock plier, medium size 1 marker pen 1 - cold water valve assembly # AP4445613 1 - hot water valve assembly #AP4441935 1 - water level pressure switch #AP4440713 an old towel or two for absorbing small amounts of water a cellphone / camera for making sure you have the correct connections at the correct locations. Disconnect power line and turn water supplies off. Unscrew watersupply line(s) using the channel lock to loosen the nuts and then by hand unscrew them. Not necessary normally to squeeze very hard, just grip and turn and the nuts should loosen up. Unscrew laundry unit upper cover at rear where there are 2 large plastic clips (4 phillips screws altogether); removing the cover takes a little jiggling. A plastic wallboard compound trowel can be used to start the cover by jamming it in between the cover and the base unit. Pull the cover back a few inches and lift away. In my case, the 2487 had a bad cold water valve as it would overfill or run intermittently; by manually turning off the supplyside valve, I could test the valve out during "normal" operation. I wasn't sure if the pressure sensor was bad too but the cold water valve was definitely bad. Since, I was going to have to open the machine up anyways, I decided to order the cold water valve, hot water valve and pressure sensor anyways. On the 2487 model, the cold water assembly has 4 electrical solenoid clips, the hot water has one. Put an old towel underneath the 2 valve units so when you pull the supply lines off, it can absorb the small amount of water that will run out. Take a couple of picture images of the assemblies, paying attention to the solenoid power connectors and the water lines connecting to the cold water assembly so you can refer to them if necessary when reassembling. Also, using a pen or marker, mark the cold water supply line clamps with some kind of number or indicator so you can have the correct order during reconnection. Pull the power solenoid lines off; I removed both cold and hot at the same time to give me some room. Then using the needlenose plier (or pipeclamp pliers), disconnect the water supply lines. I removed the cold water supplies first and then the assembly, then removed the hot water valve afterwards as the access wasn't too great. Not a big deal though. Reconnection is basically the reverse, paying attention to the correct hose locations and the correct electrical solenoid connections. The camera/cell phone pix were useful for that along with the pipe clamp markings. Super easy with that stuff. I decided not to do the water pressure sensor unless it was broken so I put it all back together to test the unit. So far have done 5 full loads and no problems.

Replaced both inlet water solenoid valve assemblies and not necessarily part of the issue I replaced the level switch. The washing machine worked perfectly after the repair. It only took 15 to 20 minutes to perform the repair with the simplest hand tools (Philips screwdriver & pliers for the hose clamps).

Replaced pressure sensor on pump discharge.

Watched the video on your website and fixed the problem with no trouble.

Removed and Renewed Drain Pump Motor..Old pump was worn slap out. Obvious after we received the new pump.Front bushing were impeller is could move up and down at least 3/16".New pump has no play.We got 9 Years of service,and we learned a lot through this issue. Thanks to all the video's out there, and the info and parts support of AppliancePartsPros..