Lg EBG51439303 Wall Oven Thermal Safety Thermostat OEM Part

Looked online. Others said to start with the thermostat because its cheap and easy to fix, so I did. The thermostat is located at the rear of the oven on the back. You need to remove a total of 3 panels to get to it. Do not confuse it with the thermal sensor at the rear of the oven on top. My thermostat was clearly deformed, and I had never run a self clean like other with testify to. Simply replace it - easy. Oven worked like new.

My wife self-cleaned the LG oven....in doing so the thermostat was damage. The thermostat is located on the back of the oven. Cost a total of $18 to fix rather than calling a pro. The oven would turn on but not heat over 150 degrees. Shut the power off on the oven (unplug and breaker box) remove sheet metal on top and back of the oven. Remove wires attaching to the thermostat and replace.

Replaced the Thermistor ($9) and the Thermostat ($19). It was a 60 minute fix by the time you pull out the oven and put it back. The oven times out and errors with an F9 code when the temperature does not reach a minimum 150 degrees. First, turn off the breaker and pull out the oven (I had 6 screws into the cabinet). Take off the back panel for the upper and/or lower oven, depending on the fix. Mark the screws before unscrewing the back panel. Otherwise, you will not remember the correct holes (more holes than screws in the back panel). Replace the thermistor (unscrew in oven first), and then replace the thermostat (a 5 minute step). Both have quick wire release attachments. Replace the back panel and re-install oven. NOTE: It is easier if you can slide the oven completely out at the same height. The oven is very heavy and it may help you relocate the wires (in my case flex tube) so the oven fits snuggly back in its place without the wires getting caught. Test the oven before you re-attach to the cabinet. Don't EVER use the Clean Cycle AGAIN! NOTE: Re-attached all molding with double stick velcro in case I need to repair again. This way I won't worry about breaking he molding around the oven (when it happens again). FYI - saved about $400 in service.

Replaced thermostat on rear of oven and that was it. I tested continuity after removal and failed, and also malformed so you could tell was bad. Thermostat on top of unit was good. Recommend buying both when purchasing as found several posts of either failing although the rear was more common - seemed to be different parts but not sure if interchangeable. We used the oven earlier that day at 500 degrees so assume that's what cause was. We've run self clean in the past and may have been contributing factor.

I searched online for F9 error fixes and people said to replace the thermostat. I replaced thermostat and it fixed the problem! Hardest thing was pulling oven out of cabinet!!