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Customer Questions and Answers for Turbidity Sensor (Aqua Sensor Assembly) by Bosch

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Bosch
Part Number: OEM8407101
Manufacturer Part Number: 00165279

This turbidity sensor detects how clear the dishwasher's wash water is so the control can adjust cycle time, rinses, and water changes. Replacing a faulty sensor helps restore proper cleaning performance and normal cycle lengths.

  • Monitors soil level/clarity of the wash water
  • Signals the control to extend or shorten wash and rinse phases as needed
  • Helps optimize water use while maintaining cleaning results
  • Failure symptoms can include unusually long or short cycles, poor cleaning, repeated draining/refilling, or cycles that won't advance
What's included: 1 turbidity sensor assembly Install notes:
  • Disconnect power and turn off the water supply before servicing
  • Pull the dishwasher out as needed; access the sensor from the base area
  • Place a towel to catch residual water; release the locking tab or twist-lock, unplug the connector, and install the new sensor fully seated and locked
  • Restore power/water and run a test cycle; check for leaks

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Questions & Answers

For Bosch Turbidity Sensor (Aqua Sensor Assembly) (Part Number: OEM8407101)

Daniel J for Model Number SHX7E55UC/52

I'm getting error code E22 at the end of the dishwasher cycle several times per week. However, the microfilter is clean, the dishwasher is cleaning and draining properly (I can hear the water flowing into the drain normally), and there is only a small amount of clear water remaining in the very bottom of the sump at the end of the cycle which appears completely normal. I have pulled off the pump and return covers in the sump to check for debris but everything appears to be free and clear. It seems like this may be a false error. What could be causing this?

1 Answer

Daniel, With the drain operating and the filter being clean this will most likely be a control module error.

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1 Answer

Scott, You will want to check to see if there is power going to the pump assembly. If there is power then the pump would be the issue. If there is no power then the issue will be a control board issue.

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1 Answer

Mitul, You will want to check to see if there is power to the control module on the unit. If there is 120 vac to it then the issue will be a faulty control module.

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Andy for Model Number SHX5

Dishwasher was not cleaning dishes all of a sudden. Sometimes it works sometimes it doesn't. I ran the test and it gave an E6 error code for aqua sensor. However, from what I can tell, the aqua sensor wouldn't effect the quality of the wash cycle. Would it? I read that you might not even notice an aqua sensor issue as it's mainly for energy efficiency. Is my problem somewhere else? How likely am I to get a different error code when I fix the aqua Sensor?

1 Answer

Hello Andy. Sure, the aqua sensor affects the dishes. It advances the cycle when they are still dirty. You will need to replace the sensor.

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Paige for Model Number SHU5316 UC/12

Dishwasher started making a funny grinding sound and would run full cycle but get stuck with one minute on the timer and run forever until manually stopped. Ordered and installed the circulation pump repair kit. This took care of the grinding noise but it still hung up on one minute. It is hot and steamy in there when I open the door. Nothing leaking on the floor. Removed and inspected the control board, no visible signs of any burned-out or cracked solder. Tried running the test cycle, dishwasher displayed "1" and ran for about an hour until we realized the test cycle is only supposed to take a few minutes, so we shut it off. Is this "1" an error code (indicating a problem with the aqua sensor)? Not sure if it counts since the test cycle never completed. Especially since our dishwasher's problem in a regular cycle is displaying "1" and running forever, and then it happened during the test cycle, should we rely on that as an accurate error code? And if so, do we order/replace the aqua sensor assembly or the whole heating element?

1 Answer

Hello JT. No, there is not one made that will get it hot enough without bringing hot water into the unit.

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1 Answer

Hello Tom, If the fault code is E1 it indicates an issue with the control board, high limit thermostat, pressure switch, or related wiring. The constant cycling sounds like an issue that is common to occur that requires the water inlet switch to be changed along with the control. The heating circuit should be checked for issues with the wiring and/or components.

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1 Answer

Hello Ted, This is most likely caused by a bad water inlet valve. If your model number is actually SHX45P05UC/53 you will need to order 00607335. If the model is different you should post a new question with the complete model listed and we will find the correct part for the model posted.

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1 Answer

Julie, This could be a high limit/NTC error and you will want to pull and test them. Test to make sure that the high limit is closed at room temp and the NTC has a resistance of about 48K ohms at 77 degrees.

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Pete for Model Number SHU5314 UC/06

My machine starts to fill, then cycles between drain and fill. The Circulation motor never kicks in. If I try to enter the test mode to retrieve a fault, The water fills and drains the same during the test mode however I do get 21 when entering and then straight to zero. I've checked the resistance to the motor and it checks good at 10 ohms, NTC at 53 ohms, and all switches, (flow, float and level, check good. When I ohm the aqua sensor, on one side I get 13.5 ohms on the other I get .456 ohms. Am I measuring this correct? If I reverse polarity, I get Zero on both sides. Plus one side is clear the other is black.

1 Answer

Pete, It sounds like the aqua sensor may be bad but the manufacturer does not give specs on it to go by. Unfortunately this would not cause the unit to continue to fill and drain. If the unit fills then immediately goes to drain then it sounds more likely that the control module is bad.

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