Customer Questions and Answers for Control Unit by Bosch

Paul, If the unit is continuously running then it is possible that you have a bad turbity sensor. The turbity sensor would gauge the dirtiness of the water and will keep the unit running for long periods to try to get the dishes clean. Also check under the unit to ensure that there is no waer in the base pan of the unit which would cause the unit to stop at 1 on the display and keep running. If there is water then check the water valve for leaking.

Brian, With there being power to the control board but not to the on off switch then the issue would be a faulty control board.

Danmariana, If the unit is getting down to like 1 minute and just continues to run then the heating circuit would be the most likely cause. This heater would be located under the tub and you would need to pull the unit out to access it. You will also want to check the wiring between this heater 00480317 and the control module to make sure that there is no damaged wires.

Hello James, This is most likely a heating circuit failure. The heater assembly 00480317 is the most common cause of this failure.

Hello B.P., This sounds like you may have a damaged impeller in the circulation pump.

Hello B.K. If there power to the switch but not coming out, you will need to replace the switch on the unit.

Hello Frank, Turn the power to the unit off and remove the kickpanel. Remove the water valve to gain access to the inside of the base. Use a paper towel to see if any water is in the base. If there is, the unit is actually trying to pump out water because it thinks the unit is flooding the house. Most of the time, replacing the water inlet valve 00425458 and cleaning the water from the base corrects the issue. To clean the water out, use a teri-cloth towel to "wick" the water out. This may take a few minutes, but it works better than removing the unit from its' installed position because unit removal normally takes much longer. Now to answer the question that is burning inside you, the water inlet assembly on the left side of the unit has a small hole made in it. If the water valve isn't opening all the way, or the water pressure to the unit is low, the water will "dribble" out of this hole and slowly accumulate in the base, activating the flood switch. The issue is normally corrected by replacing eh water inlet valve. This alone won't correct the issue since the water in the base must be removed to de-activate the flood switch. Of course, there are other places that water can leak into the base, but this is by far the most common.

Hello Mike, The first thing I always check on these is the wire nut connections in the power junction box on the front right behind the kick panel. Quite often, I find loose wire nuts that have almost burned off and make enough connection to show voltage until under a load. If this isn't it, it can be out of level far enough to cause a problem after the door panel is reinstalled. The door switches on these can lose connection if the unit isn't leveled properly as the unit sitting out of level directly affects the door strike. Lastly, is the harness stuck to the sound dampening material on the inside of the door liner? If so, it was identified as an issue that the sound dampening material on some units were actually absorbing into the wires' insulation and causing the harnesses to short.

Hello Kent. If the control unit 00676967 is not powering the heater, you will need to replace it. If the heater has power, but does not work, you will need to replace the heater. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. Hope this helps. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

Hello George. You will need to dry the water in the bottom and run the dishwasher. While it is running, you will look for leaks around the hoses. Once the leak is found, you will need to order the hose that is bad. Hope this helps.