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Customer Questions and Answers for Microwave Diode Cable Assembly by Ge

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4.89 (64)
By: Ge
Part Number: OEM20977617
Manufacturer Part Number: WB27X35382

Microwave won't heat but runs? A faulty diode cable assembly prevents power conversion. DIYers report 10-minute fixes after diagnosing the issue.

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Questions & Answers

For Ge Microwave Diode Cable Assembly (Part Number: OEM20977617)

1 Answer

Bob F, If you test the diode in one direction it will have continuity and if you reverse the leads on the meter then it will not have continuity. Yes, the diode can cause a no heat issue.

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Justin for Model Number JNM1541SM5SS

I have a G.E Microwave model number JNM1541SM5SS.The microwave stop heating and the turntable does not turn anymore.When you open the door the light in the microwave comes on, then you shut the door and punch in numbers and hit start and the microwave comes on and counts down but no heat, or again the turntable does not turn. Would you possibly be able to give me all parts that could cause it to not heat so I can try to check them out and find out which part is bad? Also would you be able to give me all parts that could cause the turntable not to turn so again I can check parts to see which one is my problem? Thanks so very much for your help.

1 Answer

Justin, the primary door switch WB24X10047 or the main control WB27X10931 (control has been discontinued by the manufacturer and is no longer available) can cause this failure. The door switch can be tested for continuity when the microwave power cord is unplugged to identify if it may be the cause of failure.

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1 Answer

Jesse, thanks for the question! First, be sure the outlet has 115v. Then check the power cord for continuity. If that is bad replace the cord. Check the filter board to see if it is putting the 120v out to control. If the filter board WB02X11250 is good check the for power at the control board. If you have the power there the control WB27X10966 is bad. I almost forgot there is a TCO WB24X10163 on top of the cavity that should be inline after the filter (black wire from the filter). Check it for continuity and replace if it is open. Hope this helps you solve the issue.

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1 Answer

JAJ, Based on the model and information provided the first this to look at that is common to all of the issues is the secondary interlock door switch.

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1 Answer

David, the diode WB27X35382 can certainly cause the buzzing sound and can prevent the unit from heating. However, the buzzing should not occur until the microwave is put into a cooking cycle. As it is buzzing when the door is closed, you may want to test the main control (with the power disconnected from the unit) at relay 2 and relay 5 (red and yellow wires to the yellow and white wires) for continuity. If there is continuity, then the relays are stuck closed and the main control WB27X10931 would need to be replaced. Unfortunately, the manufacturer has discontinued the main control and it is no longer available.

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1 Answer

Garrett, When you open the unit on the top of the cavity there is a thermal cutoff WB24X10163 that you would want to check for continuity. This will be the most likely cause for the unit to completely shut down.

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1 Answer

Harry, what you can do is if you test the amp draw of the unit as it is running, the amp draw should exceed the limit of the breaker in order to make it trip. If it is drawing excessive amps, then you may want to look at the transformer. If it is not drawing excessive amps, you can try plugging the microwave into another outlet to test if it is the microwave tripping the breaker or a weak breaker.

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1 Answer

Jon, With the diode blowing as soon as the unit was turned on then this would be an indication of a faulty capacitor.

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Jay for Model Number General Electric Model HVM1540LM2CS microwave oven

I have a question about my GE HVM1540LM2CS microwave oven. It is about 5 years old. It worked for about 3 years with no problems, but then started blowing its internal 20 amp fuse intermittently. The first time that I replaced the fuse, it lasted for well over a year. The second time 2 weeks, the third time 3 mos., etc. I have had a new fuse in there for a few days now and it is working, but for how long, I don't know. The oven is on a dedicated circuit breaker which has never tripped (just the internal fuse blows). The fuse does not blow when the door is opened/closed. It seems to blow during operation or within, say, around 30 seconds or more of operation (it varies) or even at the end of the cook cycle. Could this be an HV diode problem? The oven gets fairly light use so I don't believe that it is an HV capacitor problem or a magnetron/transformer issue. When working, it works fine and heats well. Any ideas?

1 Answer

Hello Jay. It sounds like one of the door switches or the door latch is bad and will need to be replaced on the unit.

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1 Answer

Hello Joel. You need to check and see if any of the thermal cut outs are bad. If so, they will prevent the unit from coming on.

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