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Customer Questions and Answers for Switch by Ge

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Ge
Part Number: OEM6205287
Manufacturer Part Number: WR29X5171

Questions & Answers

For Ge Switch (Part Number: OEM6205287)

1 Answer

David, In most cases when the gears are slipping then the heater is not coming on allowing the ice to eject which would be a faulty icemaker.

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1 Answer

Hello John, The microswitch can be tested from COM to NC with an ohm meter. It should read no contact in one state and no resistance, (the state being changed by activating the button on the switch). It should then be tested from COM to NO in the same manner. If either case reads a resistance with the switch in the closed state, the switch is bad. Likewise, if a resistance or reading other than open is obtained in the open state, the switch is bad.

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Rick for Model Number ice maker model WR30X0327

This morning I awoke to a puddle of water by my refrigerator below the ice/water output. I opened the freezer door to find water running out of the control box area (front, top) of the ice maker. After turning off the water and cleaning up the mess, I turned my attention to the icemaking unit and found that the bottom of the unit was burning hot!!! (I am the proof). Will I need to replace the whole unit or are there any particular parts that may be failing? I have since removed the unit from inside the freezer and await your advice. Sincerely, Rick H.

1 Answer

Hello Justin. You need to check and see if there is power going to the water valve when the icemaker cycles. If so, replace the water valve on the unit. If not, or the icemaker does not cycle, you will need to replace the icemaker on the unit. Also, check and make sure the fill tube on the unit is not frozen and clogged. If so, replace the water valve and thaw out the fill tube. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

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1 Answer

Hello Marvin, This can be one of several things. First thing to check is the water pressure. The water valve is closed by the water pressure only. There is no spring to aid in its' closure. Therefore, low water pressure will cause the valve to close too slowly, in turn causing an overfill condition. The other thing you can check is the water valve output. This will allow you to see if full water pressure is passed through the water valve. In case you wonder what good this is, if the water pressure isn't fully passed through the water valve, the water valve isn't fully opening and is probably having a hard time closing since the valve is failing. The last thing can't easily be checked. If the water pressure and the valve check out good, the fault will have to be a set of contacts in the ice maker sticking. Let us know if we can further assist you.

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Andrew for Model Number TPX24BPDABB Refrigerator

A while ago my ice maker was spilling water into the freezer every time I got water out of the door and filling my freezer with ice so I replaced the water valve about three months ago and now my ice maker is not getting any water to fill the tray but it goes through its cycle and the arms rotate about every 30 minutes like they are pushing out ice but the ray never got filled could the hold switch be the problem or would it be something else. Andrew

1 Answer

Hello Andrew. Check the fill tube coming into the icemaker and see if it is frozen. If so, you need to check the temperature in the freezer and make sure is is around 0°. If to cold, it will freeze the fill tube in the unit.

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Kenneth for Model Number GE WR30X0289 Icemaker

In response to your question as to what the trouble was with the hold switch: I found that the Normally Closed contacts were resistive. Reading any where from over seven Kilo ohms to just a few. I had also wondered if there was something causing too much current to flow in that circuit; like, maybe the heater. The icemaker never "called" for any water. I could manually fill the icemaker tray, and it would freeze and eject the frozen ice cubes. I replaced the dual water valve because it had gotten kinda sluggish when I drew chilled water. When that didn't resolve the icemaker problem, I removed it (icemaker)and discovered that the stop switch was defective again. Thank you for your reply. Kenneth

1 Answer

Hello Kenneth. If the water valve is new, then the issue is the icemaker WR30X10093 and it is best to replace it as a unit. These icemakers are electronic and don't work well being repaired. It is best to replace it.

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1 Answer

Kenneth, The "hold" switch, is basically power in(120 VAC) into the ice maker control assembly, It is controlled by the "bale" arm and or the "ON/OFF switch of the ice maker. What is the voltage on the brown wire on the switch, it should be 120 VAC constant, as long as the door switch is closed. Is there residual voltage on the other wire when the ice maker is turned off or the bale arm is in the "full" position? What was defective on the hold switch you forgot to mention if it was shorted out, out of adjustment, etc. Thanks

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1 Answer

Hello Patrick. If the icemaker is over flowing on the unit, you will need to replace the water valve WR57X10019 on the unit. If the icemaker is sticking and over flowing, you will replace the icemaker. You can test for power to the water valve. If no power and still water, replace the valve. To much power, replace the icemaker. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. Hope this helps. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

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