Customer Questions and Answers for Refrigerator Temperature Sensor by Ge

Hello Marty, This will have to be a bad power supply circuit on the main board WR55X10942C.

Hello John. You need to check and see if the damper is bad and will need to be replaced on the unit. If it is stuck open, and will not close, you will need to replace the damper assembly on the unit.

Gamut, There are a total of 3 or 4 thermistors for this unit. There is one on the evaporator, one down at the bottom of the freezer compartment next to where the drain is and one next to the damper in the refrigerator compartment. The last one in the refrigerator section would most likely be around the crisper drawer area.

Hello Jeff. Dual Evaporator models, by design, create a high humidity environment in the fresh food section. Although this design improves the preservation of certain refrigerated foods, the potential exists in some units for an ice ball to form in the lower section of the compartment due to excessively cold temperatures and high humidity. The low temperatures are created by gaps around the beverage center duct and along the left side of the Custom Cool air handler cover. These locations can be sealed and the temperature improved using the service kit WR49X10180 (120V heater) or WR49X10175 (220V heater). Refer to the attached kit instructions for the proper repair method. The ice ball problem is being caused by very low temperatures in the lower left part of the fresh food compartment. The low temperatures are being driven by two gaps that need to be sealed. One around the beverage center duct and one along the left side curved geometry of the Quick Chill air handler cover. These two locations need to be sealed with RTV. REMOVE POWER TO THE UNIT BEFORE PERFORMING KIT INSTALL. REMOVE ALL ICE AND MOISTURE FROM ALL REPAIR AREAS. SOME 25 CU. FT. BIS MODELS DO NOT HAVE BEVERAGE CENTERS. CHECK FOR WIRES ALREADY ROUTED WITH DC (RIGHT FRONT) HARNESS IN FRESH FOOD COMPARTMENT. IF THERE ARE WIRES THERE, A DC KIT HAS BEEN INSTALLED. IF DC KIT WAS INSTALLED ALREADY, CONNECTION TO MAIN BOARD MUST BE REMOVED AND HARNESS CUT SHORT. Step 1 Remove the bottom three bins and lower shelf in the fresh food compartment. Remove any ice inside the fresh food side of the unit. Check under the quick chill assembly. Clean and dry the area, as well as the sump. Step 2 Remove the beverage center duct cover and the evaporator line cover. Remove the fresh food evaporator cover via the three (3) screws attaching it (Figure 1). Tilt the assembly out of the way of the beverage center duct. It is not necessary to disconnect the fans. Remove any ice present and dry the area thoroughly. Should Fresh Food Evaporator EPS Block or Air Return EPS Block become damaged in this process, utilize replacement pieces in kit. Step 3 Remove Beverage Center Duct and replace with new duct from kit, liberally applying RTV to seal Duct in place. RTV completely around the Duct including behind and below, smoothing on with finger is preferred method. Cover as much of the gasket area as possible (Figure 2). Install the EPS L-insert per Figure 2. Step 4 Apply a liberal bead of RTV along the space between the custom cool cover and the left sidewall (Figure 3). Smooth to ensure a clean appearance. Step 5 Apply a liberal amount of RTV102 to the underside of the 3-watt AC heater assembly. Follow the INSIDE of the lip on the bottom of the heater assembly (Figure 4). Ensure the RTV will make contact around the entirety of the heater assembly when applied to the custom cool cover. Step 6 Position heater assembly on custom cool cover, making sure heater assembly is directly touching the left sidewall (Figure 5). Heater assembly should fit custom cool cover geometry snugly. Ensure that the heater assembly goes all the way back to the evaporator tube cover. Step 7 Apply aluminum tape to the front of the heater assembly. Starting back under the Quick Chill assembly and coming up the front of the heater assembly about 2.5” Keep the tape as close to the left side fresh food wall as possible. Step 8 Cover aluminum tape with white vinyl tape. Step 9 Route heater wire under evaporator cover as far as possible for as little consumer exposure as possible. Step 10 Replace evaporator tube cover. Move evaporator cover back into position and replace screws. Remove the cold water reservoir plastic cover. Position the reservoir coils as clear of the right front DC grommet as possible. Step 11 Ensure power to unit is disconnected before drilling. Check for Flow Meter wiring harness clearance in doghouse before drilling. If the unit has precise fill feature, check for wire harness clearance in doghouse before drilling. If wires are in the way, adjust hole location accordingly. Drill a 1/2" hole straight down into the machine compartment. Locate the hole in front of the right front DC grommet. Hole should be 1” in front of DC grommet edge and 2” from right liner wall. Drill perpendicular to the surface. Step 12 RTV around the underside of the grommet lip (Figure 10). Insert grommet into hole. Ensure it is pressed completely in, until the base of the grommet lip touches the fresh food floor surface. Clear excess RTV for clean appearance. Step 13 Use a wire tie to attach the heater wire to the AC harness (right rear harness) for strain relief inside the fresh food compartment. Clip off excess wire tie. Keep the spacing between the heater wire and the DC (right front) harness as large as possible (Figure 11). Step 14 Route the heater assembly wire down through the installed grommet. Fill inside of grommet around harness with RTV to prevent air leaks (Figure 12). Step 15 Reinstall all fresh food compartment components. Pull out unit. Remove machine compartment cover. Step 16 Remove the water valve assembly to provide clearance to connect wiring. Step 17 Use a wire tie to attach the heater wire to the AC harness as a strain relief in the machine compartment. Try to keep spacing between the heater wire and the rear entering DC harness as large as possible (Figure 13). Step 18 Use the bell/crimp style wire connectors to connect the heater wiring to the jumper harness (Figure 14). Step 19 Disconnect main power cord 6-pin connector. Place heater jumper harness in line (Figure 15). Coil excess wiring and wire tie. Tuck excess wiring back in machine compartment (Figure 16). Ensure that all harness connectors are secure; some may be loose from factory. Step 20 Apply power back to unit and ensure both unit and heater are operational. Listen for compressor and feel heater with back of hand. Heater surface will be slightly warmer than surrounding left wall surface. Go back and ensure that heater assembly is directly touching the left sidewall. Heater may have shifted during wire routing. Step 21 Replace cover on machine compartment. Ensure that no wires are being pinched between the cover and the case back. Replace unit to original position in home. Step 22 Remove plate covering water tube to the filter (Figure 17). RTV sealing the tubes to the foam to prevent any possible air leaks. Step 23 Check gasket around fresh food door and freezer door for tears or gasket rollover. Repair/replace as necessary.

Hello Dana. If the heater and the thermostat are good, then you need to replace the main control board on the unit.

Juan, Based on the information it sounds like the display assembly is the issue and would need to be replaced. It is possible that the main control board could also be faulty but with no keypad response the display board WR55X10393 is most likely.

Alex, You will want to check the thermistors in the unit, which you will check off the main control board. You would check the resistance for the thermistors which should be 42.2k Ohms @ 0 degrees, 14.4K Ohms @ 37 degrees and 5K Ohms @ 77 degrees. You will need to know the actual temperature of the refrigerator and will want to check by placing a thermometer in each section on the center most part of the unit. If the thermistors do not read properly then replace the thermistors.

Jeff, You will need to check to see if the compressor is running. If the compressor is not running, at the main control board, verify power going to the compressor and also check at the compressor by testing across the wires on the start relay and overload. If there is power there then the most likely cause of failure is the start relay WR07X26749 in which you would want to replace the overload WR08X10025 at the same time. If there is no power from the board then you would need to replace the control board.

Hello Eric, This will be one of several parts. The most common to fail is the defrost heater WR51X10055. The other parts that could cause this are the defrost thermostat WR50X10068 the main control board WR55X10942C and the sensors WR55X10025. There are actually three of the sensors but the one on the evaporator assembly is the one that would affect the defrost.

Jim, You will want to test the temperature sensors to make sure that they are within range. The sensors should have a resistance value of 42.2K ohms @ 0 degrees, 14.4k ohms at 37 degrees and 5K ohms at 77 degrees. If not within range then replace the sensors and if within range then replace the main control board.