Jerry September 10, 2012 for Model Number RS253BASB I read some owners run some sort of self diagnostic test with codes that point to the source of their problem. Does my refer have a diagnostic mode? If so, how do I access it and how do I decode the codes?
1 Answer Hello Jerry. This model does not have that to determine if the heater is bad. Based on the information you provided, you need the evaporator. The heater is bad in the unit. Read More...
Brian June 14, 2012 for Model Number Samsung RS2556sh Freezer and Refrigerator both dead. Food in refrigerator was warming and frozen foods were defrosting. Display temps were OK. Unplugged and replugged and temps immediately changed to 38 freezer and 57 refrigerator. Removed both inside back panels and coils were clean without ice. Removed rear lower cover and compressor was very hot and fan was not spinning. Removed power and cooled compressor with table fan for an hour+. Plugged back in and only display I have now is a single vertical bar in right digit. It is the left vertical segment of a #5. What do I do now? Is it the main control board, compressor or what? Help please. Thanks
1 Answer Hello Brian. It sounds like the main PCB Is bad in the unit and will need to be replaced, based on the information you provided. Read More...
David May 16, 2012 for Model Number SR-S2026CVW (Samsung) My double door upright is cooling well if you switch on and it reaches temperature as set on LED panel,the thermostat then cuts out then the problem starts with fridge starting to warm up with compressor not kicking in and the temp displayed on the LED panel wont change and fridge will just defrost like that.
1 Answer Hello David. Test the sensors DA47-00095E and see if they are around 5.5K at room temperature. If so, the sensors are working and you will need to replace the main control board on the unit. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...
Brokenone April 27, 2012 for Model Number SAMSUNG RS2534WW My Samsung RS2534WW Fridge is not cooling down enough. After running the self diagnostic test, it shows R-1C error code, which indicates R-defrost sensor part error. What part(s) do I need to obtain? Do I only need to replace DA47-00095E?
1 Answer Hi. The fridge sensor is part # DA47-00095E. It is located behind the rear cover inside the fridge on the evaporator area. Thank You. Read More...
Simon T. March 22, 2012 for Model Number RS2555SW The fridge goes back and forth from reaching 3 degrees and keeps going to 17 to 19 degrees. Do I need to change the thermostat or sensor?
1 Answer Hi Simon. I would use a volt/ohm meter part # MA-DM1 to assist. you in your diagnosis. Check the sensor at the board. Find the CN -30 pin 7-6. It should read 29,350 ohms at 0°. At 77° it should read 5000 ohms. Sensor part # DA47-00095E. On the digits on the panel are there any small parts of the digit lit up? Try to tell me where the L.E.D. id lit up on what digit in the # 8 square figure. I will help decipher the codes given. Thank You. Read More...
Will February 14, 2012 for Model Number RS2533RS What dose the sensor assembly do? and what reading should have
1 Answer Will, It's just as it is labelled, it senses the temperature of the component or the room air, depending on what area of the fridge it is located. At room temperature it should have a resistance of 1,000 to 1,100 ohms and produce a voltage of .5 volts back to the control at 0 dgrs it has a resistance of 13,300 and a voltage of 2.8 volts and at 38 dgrs. has 3,200 ohms and a voltage of 1.2 volts. Based on the resistance and voltage, the control determines what the refrigerator needs to do as far as cooling, defrosting, and also assists in programming the defrost cycle time and pattern. Thanks and Good Luck Read More...
Brian February 07, 2012 for Model Number RS2556SH I am having the seemingly common issue of the freezer working perfectly, while the fridge frosts over and warms to the high 50s-low 60s. I removed the back panel to find the water line and evaporator coils both frosted over. The error code given via the self diagnostic is the cool select zone sensor. I am not sure what that entails other than testing the Main PCB. I bought the entire evaporator assembly which includes the defrost heater and the temp sensor thinking they were obviously at fault as the defroster failed to work. I figured I would take off the defrost heater and reassemble onto the existing evaporator assembly in order to save on the bump in costs that a simple swap would incur. My confidence was shaken however, while defrosting the evaporator assembly I checked the continuity and found everything on the evaporator assembly to be good. Everything checks out the same installed as the new one does from the box. Does this mean I need a new circuit card or what? I don't know much about those which is why I am blaming it for now instead of ripping out my hair. Thanks in advance for any help you can offer.
1 Answer Hello Brian. Yes, if the evaporator assembly is testing good, but the board is not powering the heater, you will need to replace the control board DA41-00134F on the unit. Hope this helps. Read More...
Brian January 30, 2012 for Model Number RB1855VQ the temp display on my machine doesnt change and Ive checked for parental lock sometimes you only see part of the numbers on the display what part could be causing this? sometime its too cold sometimes not
1 Answer Hello Brian. Based on the information you provided, it sounds like the assembly DA97-00352Y is bad and will need to be replaced. Hope this helps. Read More...
Simsim January 05, 2012 for Model Number RB2155SH Just a follow-up to my prior question and answer received ... failed component appears to be the door switch: removal of the door switch resolved the problem as the fridge fan works and appliance maintains the desired temperature in the refrigerator compartment. Only downsides (as expected) is that the lights don't currently turn on and there is no audible alert if the door is forgotten open. Already ordered and received new switch (thank you!) and will replace it shortly... FYI: I STRONGLY recommend anyone trying to diagnose ANY similar issue to obtain and consult the SERVICE manual as the owner's manual is very and excessively limited. For example, the service manual clearly explains that if the door is not closed (i.e. main board doesn't receive input that the door is closed) (a) the light will stay on for 10 minutes and then will shut off and NOT re-light until the door 'registers' as closed or the fridge is disconnected and re-connected to the power supply, and (b) the refrigerator fan will NOT activate if the door is open. The owner's manual makes no mention of either of these, which were quite useful in reaching the diagnosis...
Simsim December 28, 2011 for Model Number RB2155SH Freezer OK ... fridge not cooling. Was alerted by the audible signal generally alerting that the door isn't closed, which continues going off at regular interval (1-2 min). When it happened, LED temperature display showed rapidly increasing fridge temperature from set/desired 38 up to ... room temperature 68 following day. Fan not spinning thus not circulating air in fridge compartment. Light apparently remained on (supposition based on observed high temperature) until it turned off; thought light bulb burnt out but did not as, after a period without power, light bulb lights when power is restored, though it initially doesn't turn off when the door is closed and, after a while, turns off again regardless of open/closed door or power supply. Tech visit: tested fan from alternative power source, fan works. Replaced main board, no change. Left with diagnosis of faulty sensor AP4138824. I ordered it, changed it, still same problem. Based on Q&A here I tested resistance for AP4136842 and found 5.9K which doesn't sound 'wrong'; tested resistance for AP4136048 and found closed / continuity. Suggestions before I look for/pay another tech to visit? Thanks
1 Answer Hello Simsim. Try unplugging the unit and reseting the control board. If this does not work, it sounds like the main control board DA41-00128D is bad and will need to be replaced. Hope this helps. Read More...