Dustin A January 18, 2013 for Model Number Mdet446ayw I originally had a control board with a burnt heater relay wire ( b side load side, purple wire) i then bought a new board and thermal fuse. I found that what probably caused that failure was an intermittent power supply from house. I corrected that problem and now no heat. All functions are good otherwise. I now have 120 coming to bottom side of heating element from centrifugal switch on motor and nothing to high limit tstat which jumps to heat element. High limit ohms good. Nothing coming from heater relay. I have 120 on incoming side of heat relay and can hear and feel heat relay make on start of dryer but nothing coming out. Heater ohms 10 ohms and thermal fuse was never blown. All other tstats ohm good. The thermo disc is blown but I have it jumped for troubleshooting. I have come to determination that my problem is either the new board is bad or my 32 pos rotary switch is bad. My question is can this be the 32 pos switch or is it board? Sorry to be so long winded but I know more details help when troubleshooting. Thanks Dustin
1 Answer Hello Dustin, If you are getting 120 vac to the heater relay but coming out of the relay on the board you are getting nothing then the board is faulty. Read More...
Pumadan August 13, 2011 for Model Number mde4806azw If this part goes bad, will the lights still work, but nothing else works, dryer wont run?
1 Answer Hello Pumadan. No, based on the information you provided, it sounds like the thermal fuse WP40113801 may be bad. It should read closed for continuity when tested. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. Hope this helps. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...