Customer Questions and Answers for Dryer Heating Element by Whirlpool

Johnny, while we do not have a repair video specifically for this unit, the repair video for the belt pulley WP37001287 can be used as a reference as it will involve the same procedure for accessing either part. Once the drum has been removed, the heater will be held in place by 2 screws that would need to be removed to be able to slide it down and out. The thermostats and wires can then be transferred to the new element WPY503978.

Jasmith, The part number for the heater on this model will be 964P3.

Nathan, Based on the model provided you would take a putty knife and release the clips to raise the machine top, then you will need to remove the screws to release ad remove the machine front and remove the tub (after disconnecting the belt). Once the tub is out you should see the element in the lower half of the air duct.

Mike, This is the manufacturer's suggested replacement with no wiring kits or installation requirements. With such a small difference there will be no problems with the new element.

Hello Michael, due to the design of this dryer, the auto/senor dry cycle is dependent on heat, so with no heat the timer is responding correctly. To check the heater circuit first test that here is 240v to the dryer terminal block, L1-L2. Next the heater circuit starts with the timer output red wire to the heat selector, (L1 to C) then to blue wire to the cycling thermostat, out on the purple wire to the hi-limit thermostat to black wire to and thru heater element then black wire to motor load switch then blue wire to terminal block L2.

Karen, According to this unit the part that you need is WPY503978 and does not show that there should be an instructions sheet and should be the same as the one that you currently have on your unit.

Kenneth, You will want to use a putty knife between the front panel and the top cover, there will be spring clips you will be pushing in on and lift the main top. Once the main top is lifted you will remove 2 5/16" hex head screws. Once you remove these then remove the front panel of the unit. You should be able to access the heater on the left side back by removing a couple of screws to remove the heater.

Hello William. Remove the front panel and look under the left side of the drum. On the back wall you will see the heater. You test it for continuity. It should read closed if good. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

Robyn, With the heater coil being broken then you should just need to replace the element. You can test the thermal fuse and thermostat for continuity. If they do not have continuity then they would need replaced.

Kimberly, You will want to test the thermostats and thermal fuse for continuity. If either does not have continuity then replace the correct one. If they check ok then the test the heating element for continuity. No continuity would mean it is faulty. If these check ok then There are 2 components other than the thermostats which would cause the heating element not to work. First is the motor and second the timer. The best option is to disconnect the power to the unit and access the heating element. Disconnect one wire that is going to the heating element, preferably the one on the thermostat side. Plug the unit back up and using a multimeter you will want to turn the dryer on and test for 120 vac at the terminal on the heater where the wire was disconnected. What this will do is eliminate the heater element itself and the motor. If there is 120 vac at this point then you know the heater is good and the motor is good because the other 120 vac coming through the thermostats is the timer side of the circuit. If there is not 120 vac at that point then you will want to test the other terminal on the heater and check for 120 vac. If there is not 120 vac then the motor would be bad .