Skip to Content
  • 2 Day Quick Delivery! 2 Day Quick Delivery!
  • 365 Day Return Policy! 365 Day Return Policy!
  • 15 million satisfied customers 15 million satisfied customers
  • Over 2.1 Million Parts In Stock Over 2.1 Million Parts In Stock
  • Repair ForumFree Tech Support!
  • Google Trusted Store Google Trusted Store

Customer Questions and Answers for Dryer Heating Element by Whirlpool

Best Seller
Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18072606
Manufacturer Part Number: WPY503978

Dryer not heating or blowing cold air? The heating element converts electrical energy to heat for drying. Most DIYers complete this repair in 45-60 minutes.

More
$54.95
Compare At:
$64.84
You Save:
$9.89

IN STOCK
Ships Today Guaranteed
Add to Cart

Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Dryer Heating Element (Part Number: OEM18072606)

Jason for Model Number Amana Commercial Dryer

Unfortunately I dont know the model number but its about 10 years old but is should still be good and its now fully cleaned out. My dryer was no longer heating so I ordered the Whirlpool heating element and the Whirlpool thermal kit. Assembled the kit and the element and then installed however still no heat. Where to go from here? Do I need to order the switch at the top of the dryer? Can I test certain lines on the element when its running to see if it is receiving power? As of now I dont where to go next other than returning parts and calling a repairman. Please help!!

1 Answer

Jason, There are 2 components other than the thermostats which would cause the heating element not to work. First is the motor and second the timer. The best option is to disconnect the power to the unit and access the heating element. Disconnect one wire that is going to the heating element, preferably the one on the thermostat side. Plug the unit back up and using a multimeter you will want to turn the dryer on and test for 120 vac at the terminal on the heater where the wire was disconnected. What this will do is eliminate the heater element itself and the motor. If there is 120 vac at this point then you know the heater is good and the motor is good because the other 120 vac coming through the thermostats is the timer side of the circuit. If there is not 120 vac at that point then you will want to test the other terminal on the heater and check for 120 vac. If there is not 120 vac then the motor would be bad and if there is 120 vac then the heater would be the issue. If there is 120 vac at each point then the heater is faulty.

Read More...

1 Answer

Rhonda, Using a putty knife between the top and the front panel, push the spring clips on either side and lift the main top. Once you lift the top the heater would be at the back of the unit attached to the bulk head.

Read More...

1 Answer

James, Yes, the heating element or the wires to the element could be shorted to chassis ground causing the breaker to trip open, and the no heat situation.

Read More...

1 Answer

Hello Randy. You will need to raise the top on the dryer and remove the front panel on the unit. Once removed, the element is located under the drum on the left side of the unit.

Read More...
John for Model Number ALE643RBW

The black wire from the heating element to the motor switch had burnt through twice. First time It happened I cut the wire back and replaced the spade connector, the same wire burnt through a second time, I thought the temperature limit thermostat wasn't working. I replaced the thermostat and the wire has burnt through again. I haven't checked the voltage at the outlet to see if I am getting 120VAC on each leg. Could the motor switch be bad and not sending 120VAC to that side of the element.

1 Answer

John, The motor switch being bad and not sending power to the heating element would keep the element from coming on. It sounds like the wire may have corrosion in it which can weaken a wire. If you strip back the wire and there is bluish green residue then that is oxidation that can cause the wire to fail. Also test to make sure that you do not see any short to ground which could cause a burnt wire.

Read More...

1 Answer

Hello Larry. You disconnect the power and lift the top panel and remove the front panel. Laying in the floor, you will see the element on the back wall on the left side. You can replace the element from there.

Read More...

1 Answer

Hello Mari. These are not hard to replace. If you remove the toe panel from the bottom of the front, you will see the element under the drum on the left side. You can replace it from there in the front.

Read More...

1 Answer

Jonathan, Usually the reason for the wire to burn a second time after putting a new terminal on it is that the wire has been weakened and not cut back far enough. Also the wire having corrosion on it would cause the same issue. You would want to make sure that you are also using a high heat connector to reconnect the wire.

Read More...

1 Answer

Hello! Make sure the breaker hasn't tripped and that you have a full 240v volts going to the dryer. You'll need to check the thermostats and the heating element. They should read closed for continuity. Thanks.

Read More...

Have questions? Ask our pros!

Contact us in a way that is convenient for you

Call us 1-877-477-7278
Need Help? Chat with a Pro
Or ask a question by filling in the form

Share your thoughts with other customers

Ask a Question
  • Over 2.1 Million Parts In Stock Over 2.1 Million Parts In Stock
  • 2 Day Quick Delivery! 2 Day Quick Delivery!
  • 365 Day Return Policy! 365 Day Return Policy!
  • Repair ForumFree Tech Support!
  • Google Trusted Store Google Trusted Store