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Customer Questions and Answers for Range Thermal Limiter Switch by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM12291720
Manufacturer Part Number: 74008715

Fixes oven that won't heat or overheats. This thermal limiter switch cuts power when temps get too high. Easy DIY repair—check connections first.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Range Thermal Limiter Switch (Part Number: OEM12291720)

1 Answer

Hello JayP. Yes, you have a thermal limiter 74008715. If it is good, then you will need to replace the control board in the unit.

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1 Answer

Clay, This issue would be caused by a relay on the control board that is sticking and not allowing the unit to cycle.

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1 Answer

Hello Jack. Looks like the left body side will have to be removed to gain access to the hidden bake element. There will be screws down the back and a couple across the top of the body side. When they are removed, the body side should lift off of clips or tabs across the bottom. The you can access and remove the element out of the left side of the unit.

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1 Answer

Sally, To test the thermal limit switch, you will need to do a continuity test on the thermal switch. If there is no continuity then the thermal switch would be faulty and need to be replaced.

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1 Answer

Hello Andy, The first thing you need to do is to flip the breaker to the unit off and back on. Then you should check the wire nuts in the junction box where the unit is wired to the home electrical power supply. If these check out good, you will either have a bad thermal limiter 74008715 or a bad relay on the units' control board.

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1 Answer

Todd, Your range does not have a "thermal limiter". Your range may or may not have a "high limit" switch (most "free standing" ranges don't. but here's a little help " Oven High Limit NOTE: Requires removal of oven from installation position. 1. Turn off power to unit. 2. Remove lower rear access panel. 3. Disconnect and label wire terminals connected to limit switch. 4. Remove screws securing high limit switch. 5. Reverse procedure to reinstall switches." If the high limit opens it will shut off power to the control/clock, and resets when the switch has cooled down..

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1 Answer

Hello Dennis. This is exactly what the manufacture says about replacing the thermal switch 74008715. 1. Turn off power to unit. 2. Remove lower rear access panel. 3. Disconnect and label wire terminals connected to limit switch. 4. Remove screws securing high limit switch. 5. Reverse procedure to reinstall switches.

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Dennis for Model Number MER5755QAW

Thank you for answering my question yesterday about trying to locate the thermal limiter switch. I have already taken the back off the stove three times and have serched to find the switch location with no results.It apparently is not where the drawing shows it. On my model, is it possible the switch is in a different location - or - could my model have a different type of switch or fuse or protector to look for? PS - This problem all started when I replaced my burnt out bake element(purchased from your company). After I installed it, neither the bake or broiler element would heat up - leading me to believe leading me to believe I had a blown fuse or a bad thermal limiter (per your drawing and phone contacts for help) Thanks so much for any help you can give me!!!!

1 Answer

Hello Dennis. The only other location is under the cook top panel of the unit. You can raise the cooktop to saee if it is located there.

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1 Answer

Hello Dennis. The thermal limiter 74008715 is located on the back of the unit. You will need to remove the back panel to access the limiter.

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1 Answer

David, It's not the thermal limiter 74008715 , the oven has to get hot enough to open the circuit, then there would be no voltage into the ERC/Control, or power out to the for the bake and broil element. The oven Temp sensor 12001656 would usually produce an error code (3d11 or 3d21) or should display the oven interior temp. (usually 100 dgrs., that's the lowest temperature calibrated into the control). You probably should start looking for a loose connection at the terminal block on the back of the range, proper power supply at the connection, under a load, and then loose or frayed connections on the harness to the clock. Good Luck and Thanks

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