Samsung DC66-00470B Washer Rear Shock Absorber OEM Part

After reading many repair forum posts on similar issues with Samsung washers, I put the machine into troubleshooting mode to look for error codes. No error codes. I did a re-set, and the problem remained. No sign of a broken drum spider or bad bearings. So I replaced all four shock absorbers. Like many people reported, when I compared the dampening action on the new shocks to the old shocks, the old shocks felt no different than the new shocks. Same amount of resistance on the compression stroke and the return stroke compared to the new shocks. I had read that many people got to this point and assumed they had removed the old shocks for no good reason, and they returned the new shocks without installing them. I installed my new shocks and as a special heavy stress test, I loaded thick, heaving bedding materials. Hallelujah. The washer moved through its cycles and when it got to spin, it happily accelerated to full RPM without any banging or clanking and it finished its cycle like a brand-new machine. Problem solved. Items to note: When facing the back of the washer, it is a little tricky getting a socket with an extender onto the 13mm bolt at the top of the right rear shock. I used my foot to gently push the drum over to the left to gain adequate clearance. Also, for whatever reason, it was a bit tricky getting two of the longer top bolts to push all the way through the shock to engage with the threads in the mount. If you experience this, do not despair. Fiddle around. Wiggle and jiggle the bolt gently and carefully, and while doing so, gently tap the hex head of the bolt and with patience, it will push through so that the threads can engage. This is no time for brute force. It's a situation calling for a gentle touch and patience. You don't want to distort the parallelism of the nylon flanges on the mounts for the shocks. Go easy. Don't get a bigger hammer and it'll go fine. The tear-down, shock removal, shock replacement, and reassembly took me about an hour and 10 minutes. You would spend more time calling a repair tech, waiting for the tech to arrive and waiting for the tech to do the shock replacement. Doing it yourself also prevents you from bursting into tears when you get the repair bill from a service tech. Go forth in peace, with confidence, the right tools and a gentle touch, and thou shalt reach the promised land. Hallelujah.

About 2 weeks ago got an alert from my smart watch overnight of a loud noise, thought nothing of it. About a week or so later the washer started banging during the spin cycle. Though maybe the wife overloaded it and it was an unbalanced load. Tested with no load, worked fine, told her to not load it so much and see what happens. Issue persisted, and she could hear that the banging noise was coming from the front of the washer below the front loading door Came home and took the back panel off, shocks seemed a little loose so I assumed a bad shock and ordered new shocks for the washer. Decided since I’m going to have to take off the front of the washer anyway, might as well do that now so when the parts get here I can fix it immediately. Taking off that front is a pain, but just go slow, watch some of the videos on this website and you’ll get it done. Long story short, take off the front, and noticed that the basket weight is pulling away from the bottom of the basket. That was what was banging into the front of the washer below the door. One of the bolts that hold it on, came loose and must have shot off during a spin cycle (probably what caused that loud noise alert on my watch overnight). ALMOST canceled the order and just replace the bolt since the weight was still intact, BUT I said since it had probably been unbalanced for up to 2 weeks and only recently started banging the shocks we’re probably worn out a lot or damaged. Since I had this machine opened up might as well replace the shocks and then find out after putting it all together again it still bangs during the spin cycle and have to take it all apart again. Parts arrived, installed, put the whole machine back together and everything works great now. Spent $165 IIRC for the parts, tax, and overnight shipping. Don’t doubt the service call alone would have cost more than that, plus labor and parts.

Determined that it was unbalanced. Recalibrated according to Samsung directions, but still no resolution. Suspected defective/damaged spider arm, so disassembled entire washer. That was not it. Decided to purchase and replace all four dampers/shock absorbers, and the problem was resolved.

The front legs were slightly worn and the rubber coverings were missing from the rear feet. This allowed the washer to slide easily on the tile floor. I replaced all four feet. This only required a 12 mm open end wrench. After leveling the washer, things were improved, but I also took the opportunity to replace the four shock absorbers under the drum. The shock absorbers were 5+ years old and one was showing signs of wear / damage. This required removing the front and rear panels with a Phillips screwdriver. The shock absorbers required a 13 mm docket and 8” extension for the socket. Very easy repair overall.

I ordered all 4 shocks front and back. Watched the video on how to from Appliance Parts Pros. Was very helpful even told 13 m socket and wrench. I used my impact with extension and worked well. A little tricky trying to get top part of shock in outer tub. Hold firm and push with a little wiggle and they go in. Washer was on pedestal also and uneven tile floor. I put level on floor to see how much adjustment I needed then adjusted legs. Videos are great on what to expect and do to be prepared.