Samsung 3405-001034 Microwave Door Switch OEM Part

Checked the three door switches; used ohm meter to see if there was resistance or if a switch was bad. 2 out of 3 switches showed resistance with the ohm meter. The last one tested (of course the last one) NO (normally open) did not show resistance; I.e. the ohm meter reading did not change when the switch was depressed. Appliance parts pros was the only company that had the same model number I was looking for (SZW-V16-FD-63). I ordered the relay switch, 2 days later it arrived (regular shipping). I installed it and the microwave is back working great. A little time, Internet searching and you tube video watching and <$10 later I have a working microwave. Much better than the $280 warranty plan Samsung tried to sell me to have a repair person coming and fix the microwave. <10 minutes to replace the relay switch, 2+ hours to figure out exactly what the problem was. My recommendation is; if you have power to the computer display and the clock counts down when you start it. Check the door relay switches. You will read online a lot about capacitors failing, if there is power it is likely not the capacitor, check the door switches.

Changed out sensors in door. Did not realize there were more than one. Changed one that fixed problem with door and then had to get another one so oven would work right. Next time I will do a little more research. Changing sensors was real easy and only takes about 15 mins to do. I received parts in just two days, great service!!!!! Thank you.

It took me about an hour total just from taking it apart trying to move the sensors around for the door putting it back together and then ordering the parts. It was fairly simple.

One of the door latches (there are 3) stopped working. I loosened the control panel (3 screws) to access the switches. I unplugged the slide on connectors and used a vom meter to check them when the door was opened and shut. I replaced the bad switch. Saved a $180 repair Bill for a $20 part. Used u-tube for how-to-do it video.

Internet search pointed the problem (most likely) to the thermostats and door switches. I used a multimeter to check the continuity of the parts and found problems w/ the thermostat. I did not need the switches but I misdiagnosed door switch. You need to test continuity w/ the yellow switch pressed in; this is the same as the door being closed. I tested it w/ door open which will show that the circuit is "broken" and not continuous, a rookie mistake. I replaced the thermostat and everything works fine. The actual installation is a no-brainer but it's the research / troubleshooting that the most difficult part. So do your research so you don't end up ordering unnecessary parts.