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Some parts shown may not be for your model. To see parts for your model only, select it from "Matching Model Numbers" list on the left.
Wire harness for ranges and wall ovens. Connects electrical components within the appliance. Replace if wires are damaged, frayed, or connectors are broken.
Usually ships within 4 - 14 days
Fix loose or rattling parts with this 1/4-20 nut. Secures components in dryers, washers, and microwaves. Quick 5-minute repair restores stability.
After watching the repair video I opened up the dryer without any problems and found that the belt tension pully bearing failed and the mount arm had an excessive amount play in it. So armed with the part numbers I found here I went down to the local parts store and found that they did not stock the parts but could get them in a week. I went home and ordered them on line and had them the next day. I did vary from the video a bit. I uncliped the motor wire connector and removed the two screws... Read more
This is a replacement pan-head, locking screw used to secure the top bracket on compatible Frigidaire appliances. It provides a reliable fastener that helps keep the top bracket and panels held firmly in place. What it does:
Replacing the timer, timer knob, dial timer, Read more
Right-side hinge bar for your washer lid. Installs on the cabinet to support and pivot the lid. Replace if cracked, bent, or broken to restore lid function.
Secures the drain hose to prevent leaks and disconnection during spin cycles. Replace if cracked, loose, or causing water leakage. Verify fit with your model.
Shipping screw for washer drum transport stabilization. Remove before operation, save for future moves. Prevents drum damage during relocation.
Hex washer head screw for laundry centers. Secures panels and components during assembly. Replace if stripped, missing, or damaged during repairs.
If your washer won't advance cycles or overfills, the pressure switch likely failed. This DIY repair restores water level sensing in 15-30 minutes.
First I unplugged the power cord for the washer. I removed the back plate of the control panel. Then removed the knob and unscrewed the screw holding the broken pressure switch. I then swapped the three electrical cables one at a time and placed on the new pressure switch. Then I put the screw in to hold the switch in place. I replaced the knob, plugged in the washer and turned it on. The appliance immediately worked. Read more
Shipping block for washers, installs inside cabinet to secure the tub during transport or moving. Replace if lost, broken, or missing from original packaging.
The hinge grommet provides cushioning and smooth operation where the washer lid connects to the main body. Replace if the lid doesn't close properly, makes grinding noises when opening/closing, or appears loose and wobbly.
Fix a bleach dispenser that won't drain or empty during wash cycles. This washer bleach cup sits under the lid and uses gravity flow to dispense bleach.
Fix a washer that won't agitate or stops mid-cycle with this brake pad kit. Replaces worn friction pads that prevent proper drum stopping. DIY-friendly repair.
Because the washer would stop mid cycle and would start again after some period of time, I presumed that there was something amiss in the drive train (i.e. motor, transmission, belt). Took the unit apart and discovered that two of the three brake pads were destroyed. Motor turned easily as did the transmission. Replaced the brake pads and reassembled. Now the washer doesn't stop as before, but will blow by all cycles never stopping to drain, spin, or rinse. It appears that they damaged... Read more
This clamp secures flexible hoses to fittings to maintain a tight seal and prevent leaks. Use it to replace a worn or loose clamp to stop water or air seepage and restore proper hose attachment. What it does:
This is the rear control panel (backsheet) that mounts behind the main console of the washing machine. It provides structural support and houses or covers the control board and wiring connections. Replace this panel if it is cracked, warped, or damaged, which can leave internal electrical components exposed.
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