Whirlpool WP10442411 Refrigerator Defrost Thermostat OEM Part

I am not new to APP, fixed a tub belt on a Maytag dryer in the past. My frig started getting warm so I went onto to one of those "lists" sites and found a appliance repair place. The guys were great and came out right away. The tech said it was the cold control and $260 later my part was replaced, about 30 minutes. Great I thought until my frig started getting warm again. Those cold sensors on the beer bottles are a great indicator. Not wanting to spend another $260 I looked up on APP to see if I can figure it out. Options were defrost timer or defrost thermostat. I had the defrost thermostat replaced several years ago ($250). So what I did was kept turning the defrost timer until the frig turned on and that seemed to work so I figured that was the issue. Found the part online at APP and watched the videos, seemed simple enough. When I looked at the parts I figure why not swap out both since the thermostat looked very little like the one that was replaced and the total for both was $41 with shipping. The timer was in a small space underneath the frig with a cover, a little difficult removing the cover but not bad. Took my time and cleaned up as much dust as possible. The thermostat had 2 leads, 1 was different so I had to cut wires and use a wire nut. Took my time but the frig is now running. Checked out the cold control and that was about $64, so I could have replaced all 3 parts for about $100 instead of the $260 with a repairman and probably wouldn't have replaced the cold control after reading the issues. Next time I will do it myself.

I replaced the defrost timer kit first. This was easy on my refrigerator, (Kitchen-Aid bottom freezer refrigerator, KBRS22KGBL00 ). AppliancePartsPros.com has a good & easy to follow video on how to replace this component. I replaced the defrost thermostat next, which was bulged from over heating when it failed. Make sure you have all the supplies and tools you need before starting this repair! Also make sure the new defrost unit is good electrically before installing. The video for this was on a side-by-side refrigerator-freezer and not my model. After defrosting the freezer for at least 24 hours and making sure there was no ice built up on the back panel of the freezer I removed the screws except the ones closest to the ice maker. Not sure if this is the way a professional repair would be done but I gently formed NOT FOLDED the back panel so it had a gentle radius bend and moved it towards the ice maker that my unit has. Using duct tape, I held the panel out of the area I needed to work on. I made a note of which wire colors the old thermostat had and the colors of the wires they connected to. There are plastic connectors on the new thermostat and the refrigerator but they don't fit each other. I cut the connectors off both the new defrost thermostat and the old one leaving as long a wire as possible on both so I could connect wire to wire using solder splices. Make sure you have a variety of splice sizes since one of the connecting wires is bigger because of its insulation. After connecting the wires and completing the installation of the solder splices, I attached the defrost thermostat to the coolant pipe as shown in the video. The video has good information and is still worth watching. If you want, take a photo of the repair before you work on it so you have a reference when you put it back together. Test the repair by plugging the refrigerator in and manually turning the defrost timer until it turns the cooling system and fan off. Wait for a few minutes and carefully feel if you can feel heat from the evaporator heat element. It should be HOT so be careful. If it is hot you can cable tie the wires you worked on out of the way and remove the duct tape from the back panel (make sure the back panel goes into the little trough/gutter of the panel below it so moisture go where it should ). Replace the screws and you are done unless you do what I did and bump the container of panel screws and then not be able to find them all, oh well found some other screws in the kitchen junk drawer. I have to turn the temperature to six out of seven on the temp control but it works and holds the correct temperature now with no frost build up. My guess is this refrigerator is close to 15 to 20 years old. A repairman quoted $300.00 for the repair.

After doing some research, I guessed it was either a faulty defrost timer, defrost thermostat, defrost heater, or some combination of those. Using part location diagrams for my Amana BC120TW I started by looking for the evaporator coils since they obviously weren't producing enough cold. Upon removing the evaporator coil cover, I found the evaporator coils frozen into 1 solid block of ice. Using a heat gun, I carefully defrosted the coils so I could access the defrost thermostat and heater for testing. The thermostat was obviously in need of replacement since it appeared water had frozen inside of it and caused it to pop open. The heater also did not pass a continuity test making me think it was also broken. However a little more research on defrost heaters told me not all heaters will pass a continuity test, but will have an ohm reading. The old heater tested out at 29.8 ohms while the new one from AppliancePartsPros tested at 30.2 ohms. Since they were essentially the same, I knew the heater was still good. The only thing left was the defrost timer which I replaced since it was the original electro-mechanical part containing a motor and timer mechanism, and also the cheapest part to replace. I don't know whether the defrost thermostat went bad preventing the defrost heater from working, or whether the defrost timer stopped working again resulting in the defrost heater from working and freezing the thermostat. In any event, I have a new defrost timer and thermostat and a refrigerator that is back working as it has for the past 25 yrs.

Found out bottom door for freezer was open a little, causing the defrost thermostat to break (looking at it ,expanded from the metal housing] i took out racks, turned unit off and took the screws out of the back cover plate. after defrosting the ice, the rest was easy, i unclipped the thermostat from the pipe of the evaporater and instated the new one , put everything back together and it was fixed! found out this was a $300 repair and the longest time was defrosting the ice

I suspected that the defrost heater was not coming on. I 'ohmed' out the circuit. The timer was working OK. The temperature switch (attached to the evaporator coil) was measuring 'open' even when it had ice all over it (very cold). It should be 'closed' (conducting) at that temperature. I found the model number of my refrigerator and googled it and found 'AppliancePartsPros.com' where they had a very nice exploded view of different parts of my refrigerator's systems, and I identified the temperature switch in the illustrations. Their web site gave me the part number, so I ordered a new temperature switch from them on-line and received it within two business days via FedEx ground. Excellent service!