Whirlpool WP339956 Dryer Lint Screen Housing Foam Seal OEM Part

Our 19 year old Whirlpool dryer quit heating. After checking the thermal fuse, I found the ignitor electrically open. I bought an ignitor at a local store as there was a national holiday the next day and I did not want the dryer inoperative waiting several days for shipping. I can say AppliancePartsPros is MUCH cheaper for the identical Whirlpool genuine part. While changing the ignitor, I noticed there was an excessive amount of lint in the dryer, which was caused by worn drum seals. I ordered drum seals, a new drive belt, the foam seals for the exhaust duct and new nylon drum bearing set. These were delivered promptly, but unfortunately the 2-piece nylon drum bearing set had only 1 piece. I went on line, used the chat function and was promptly taken care of. The new part arrived fairly quickly, was correct and I installed it. The most difficult part of the project was the rear drum seal which must be glued to the drum. I removed the old seal and sanded off the dried glue. I then set the drum up on a work table, blocked from rolling off with 2x4s, so I could rotate it in place. The new seal needs to be stretched to make it around the drum circumference, so I used small wood clamps to hold it in place around the drum. I then pushed back the fabric, applied a small bead of glue to the drum surface, gave it about a minute to air dry, then repositioned the seal. I worked my way around the drum, rotating it on my work table. The seal installed nicely. Pay attention when you position the drum during final assembly so that the rear support rollers are in place and the seal correctly circles the stationary back wall for the drum. You can check the seal for folding bouth outside and inside. 2 people are advised for this step. One last note, the installation of the drive belt is little tricky, so photograph the belt path through the tensioner and motor drive pulley before you remove the old belt.

I replaced the cycling thermostat first...but that wasn't the problem. All other components (thermal fuse & high-limit thermostat) checked out. I couldn't find any video online that specifically dealt with testing the cycle switch; however, the diagram on the back of the switch indicated a resistance that should exist across two of the contacts; mine didn't read accordingly (with a multimeter)...so I rolled the dice and bought the cycle switch. That was indeed the problem. While at it, I cleaned all the lint paths, replaced the lint trap and lint chute seals, and installed a new belt. The bottom-line cost was cheaper than calling a serviceman, and my dryer is like new again!

Replaced thermal cut off thermostat items in kitts at service and delivery. Good video. I also need a multimeter to check for continuity to find bad parts. $34 at Lowes. Still cheaper to do it my self. Also took off lint duct and cleaned it and also bent line to outside. Both had lot of lint and other debris. Remember to order the 2 new seals to replace. After cleaning the lint cover on machine I put nut driver down on top of dryer. It rolled and fell into lint screen hole. Only when to get it was to remove cover again. Don't recommend this.

Bought new blower wheel and seals. The blower wheel was completely beyond repair and pieces of it was what I heard when drum was turning. Could not remove plastic from shaft so bought new motor also. Thanks to your videos, my daughter and I got it fixed and runs SUPER.

Well, my Kenmore dryer being an older model, I had to access the housing shoot by first removing the drum. Newer models all you need do is remove rear panel. After that removed shoot, cleaned mating surface, and applied new foam seal. Your video covers it pretty good. Also, you timely delivery of needed parts expedited the situation.