Ge WH13X26535 Washer Water Inlet Valve OEM Part

After a few internet searches, it became clear that the most common fix for this issue is replacing the water inlet valve. My washer is about five years old, which aligns with the typical lifespan of these valves. I ordered the OEM parts for this washer, as this is not something you want failing and potentially flooding your home while you’re away. The thermistor is installed directly into the valve and uses an O-ring that is known to degrade and leak over time. Since the thermistor has to be removed to replace the valve anyway—and it’s an inexpensive part—I chose to replace it at the same time. I applied a small amount of silicone paste to the thermistor O-ring before installation, although plain water would also work. This is a very common repair, and there are plenty of instructional videos online that walk through the process step by step. I found a video for my exact washer. Be sure to turn off the water supply before starting, and expect some water to drip from the hoses when they are disconnected (I used the water to clean the floor where the washer was). When reconnecting the hoses, do not overtighten them—the rubber washers provide the seal. Best practice is to use stainless steel braided hoses. If you don’t already have them installed, this is a good opportunity to upgrade. I removed two screws from the top of the washer and two screws that held the valve in place. The two electrical connectors were easy to disconnect (don't pull on the wires, wiggle and pull the plastic connector). The thermistor plugs into the circuit board. Pay attention to the connector, it has a little latch on it that holds it in place. Tools used: 1/4 inch nut driver or socket Pliers to tighten the hoses

This repair addressed two problems with a 4+ year old GE Washer GTW460ASJ0WW: 1) Washer spontaneously turned itself on and all the controls were dead, no lights on the panel. 2) Water had been slowly leaking into the tub for over a year. Ordered and installed these parts, which solved both problems: GE Ui & Control Board - Part #: AP6974046 (WH22X29556) GE Water Valve Gasket Asm - Part #: AP6892695 (WH13X26535) Notes - Control Board - Easy to open the panel with just basic hand tools. - Easy to remove the circuit board - held in place with plastic bracket - There are several connectors that need to be removed and reattached, but each is unique so there's no risk of reassembling incorrectly - Still it's a good idea to take pictures first. Notes - Water Valve - Easy BUT WATCH FOR THE THERMISTOR O-RING - The assembly is held in place with a metal place and two screws - easy - The bracket also holds the thermistor (temperature sensor) in place - It fits in a small hole in the valve body, where it contacts the water - The o-ring on the thermistor can get stuck in the old valve body - be careful to retrieve it and reinstall on the thermistor or else water will leak Thermistor Assy Part Number: AP6036255 It would have helped if there were instructions with the valve assembly, warning you of this. I didn't realize it the first time, so it leaked and I had to disassemble, inspect, find the o-ring in the old valve, then reassemble in the new one.

Replaced water valve assembly. Note: valve has a sensor pushed in the top, after replacing I noticed the sensor was a little loose, so I examined the hole in the old part and found an "O" ring in the hole so I picked it out and placed it on the sensor and put it in the valve, then the sensor was secure. The new valve does not come with an "O" ring so don't forget to check for one, if your valve has a sensor in it.

Ordered a solenoid water valve and installed it myself. It was an easy fix.

In doing a little research, I found that two components would cause the two issues. The thermistor and the water inlet valve. I ordered, and in just several days they were on my doorstep. I watched a video, and in less than thirty minutes- the temperature of the water was correct and the flow and fill was back to what we had had.