After a few internet searches, it became clear that the most common fix for this issue is replacing the water inlet valve. My washer is about five years old, which aligns with the typical lifespan of these valves. I ordered the OEM parts for this washer, as this is not something you want failing and potentially flooding your home while you’re away.
The thermistor is installed directly into the valve and uses an O-ring that is known to degrade and leak over time. Since the thermistor has to be removed to replace the valve anyway—and it’s an inexpensive part—I chose to replace it at the same time. I applied a small amount of silicone paste to the thermistor O-ring before installation, although plain water would also work.
This is a very common repair, and there are plenty of instructional videos online that walk through the process step by step. I found a video for my exact washer. Be sure to turn off the water supply before starting, and expect some water to drip from the hoses when they are disconnected (I used the water to clean the floor where the washer was). When reconnecting the hoses, do not overtighten them—the rubber washers provide the seal.
Best practice is to use stainless steel braided hoses. If you don’t already have them installed, this is a good opportunity to upgrade.
I removed two screws from the top of the washer and two screws that held the valve in place. The two electrical connectors were easy to disconnect (don't pull on the wires, wiggle and pull the plastic connector). The thermistor plugs into the circuit board. Pay attention to the connector, it has a little latch on it that holds it in place.
Tools used:
1/4 inch nut driver or socket
Pliers to tighten the hoses