Whirlpool 4392027 Microwave Door Interlock Switch Kit (2-Pack) OEM Part

First, it was going to cost $95 for an appliance guy just to look at it! I figured there would be an upcharge on the parts + labor on top of the $95, so I took a chance & decided my husband & I could fix it cheaper; we were right, but it was a 3 week process (luckily, we have another microwave in the basement we were able to use in the meantime). I googled the microwave model #, then price checked the same item I thought we needed; printed off the diagrams of the various microwave "systems" & labeled them, so we knew what every item was called. Checked various websites for the best price (including shipping), before placing my order. In hindsight, I wish I would've opened it up first before placing our order (I would've seen the burned harness wire end at that time), so I could've ordered all possible parts at the same time to save on shipping costs + time; I would've just sent those I didn't actually need back afterwards. Anyway, I purchased a motor turn part online & after the part was received, I unscrewed the trim kit & removed it from cabinet base & then we gently flipped the microwave on it's head on a hard padded surface (towel on counter or table). We replaced the turntable motor in the base (used metal clippers around the outside base of metal shield/cage, replaced part by unplugging the old & replugging the new motor, then rotated shield door to slide brackets into place). Turned right side up. Removed exterior screws to slide off the entire outer stainless steel shell "walls", pulling away from the functioning door, backwards off the microwave (there are grooves, so when you go to put it back on, set the unit with the door facing flush with countertop, using 2 people to slide it on using even pressure & speed, placing pressure of base corners). Noticed harness wire end blackened & melted, while still plugged into the bottom door switch set. Ordered entire harness wire (couldn't find just one end for fix) & replaced, still didn't work. Ordered door interlock switch kit (2-pack) ) & replaced it & voila, it turned! Tested the original turntable motor & it still worked, so we swapped it back in & then sent the new motor turn back. Total costs: harness wire $48.41 + 2-pack door interlocking switch set @ $46.81 = $95.22!!! Same price as it would have been just to have someone tell me it's broken. However, the downside is that the refund on the 1 item I shipped back was originally $46.55 minus the $8.95 shipping costs + my $4.45 shipping costs to send back means U lost $13.40 on that deal! So actual cost were $95.22 + $13.40+ $108.62 when it's all said & done...still cheaper to do it ourselves.Decided to storing the original harness wire + 2nd unused door interlock switch with receipts & diagrams, should the need arise again. Good luck! Hope this info. was helpful.

The problem was caused by a door micro switch that had gone bad. There are 3 micro switches on the door, and I could easily see it was the bottom switch as it had burned the terminal

Important,discharged the high-voltage capacitor(5000v) first. Sources say you can do this with safety steps with a short circuit of insulated screw drivers,but pros say the sharp pop is very hard on it. Just unplugged it for a week so the diode built into it drained it slow. This is a safety procedure. The repair replacement it self was fairly easy and quick. There are 3 switches where the door latches go in. The middle one is not involved. The 2 pack of switches take care of the door. Top switch easy. Gently lift the tab that goes over the top of the switch and gently pull the bottom of the switch toward you,rotating it out. Bottom one a little bit harder. There is a little white tab under it.Push it back with the eraser end of pencil and rotate it out off a little white peg that runs thru the top hole of the switch. Don't break this peg off. Re-install new switches in reverse procedure. Of course write down the color of the 4 wires that you pulled off the switches first. The Amana 1860 had white/yellow on top switch,red/blue on bottom one. Oh,to access panel on this stove, remove 2 Phillips screws on top of grill and pull grill out toward you. Now you can see 1 Phillips screw at top of keypad panel. Gently lift up on panel,that gives you access to the above switches. Recommend this website for parts(arrived within the week the oven was discharging).

Changed fuse and 2 door interlocks now everything now works great.

Remove microwave from wall Remove panel used OHM meter to check all three switches Notice the bottom switch would show continutity than go back to infinity Order two new switches Notice the bottom switch could swivel out if you push the tab out of the way Replace both switches and check operation microwave work Install panel and reinstall microwave wall unit