Whirlpool 12001541 Dryer Drum Support Roller OEM Part

I replaced the belt, belt tension pulley, both dryer drum roller axles and both drum support rollers. Although I bought 2 tumbler bearing kits, because those still look good I am saving them for when they go bad. The videos were fantastic! I also took pictures as I went of wiring so there would be no question where things went when reassembling. It should be noted some models have extra terminals near the sensor terminals... just be aware and look closely/take pics as you are taking things apart. I did purchase a split ring tool half way through the job to remove the split rings after fiddling with a flat screwdriver. It was well worth it and took literally seconds to remove and later replace the rings! I used a spin handle with sockets instead of nut drivers and it worked fine. The right rear drum support and axle appeared to have been the problem; the axle was darkened, the roller was more yellowed, and the nut was very difficult to loosen - all consistent with having been overheated. The belt tension pulley does not come with washers so be sure to save the two to reuse if you are replacing this part. Also if you suspect your problem is coming from the pulley you might consider buying the idler pulley arm that comes with the shaft permanently mounted to it. Mine looked fine and I did not replace it. All in all the job was very simple because of the videos that showed where all the clips were and the order of disassembly and reassembly. I am a smaller woman and the only thing I needed help with was to get the right rear drum roller axle loosened. Had I been alone I would have had to tried to fit a cheater bar on the end of my wrench handle which would have been a challenge due to the tight working quarters on that side. I was able to easily do everything else by myself.

The issue was the rear drum support rollers. First the front comes off and then the front drum support. I used a sharpie to label all the wire colors in case one came off. Each roller has a snap ring that keeps it on the axle so I needed to use snap ring pliers to remove the ring. I got a pair of those at the local hardware store for a couple of bucks. Once the rollers were off I used a bit of emery cloth to clean up the axles. It was mainly the left roller that was the issue. This is the roller that's right above the heating element so I think it's the heat that eventually cooks the lubricant out of the bearings. This is a 1994 dryer so I can't complain. After cleaning the axles and wiping any grit the new rollers went on smooth and I used the snap ring pliers to re-install the snap rings. Be careful, you don't want a snap ring to fly off and get lost. Then it was a simple reverse assembly. The front drum support went back on and then the front. Plugged it back in and in ran smooth as new! You might see that I also bought front slide pads. The old ones seemed in good shape so I didn't bother to replace them. I put the new olds on a nail up in the floor joist above the dryer in case I need them at a later date. We bought the dryer in 1994 and over the 24 years I replaced the belt twice an one motor and now the rear drum rollers. Hopefully I'll get 10 more years out of it. Generally it looks in good shape, the only real sign of wear is the felt drum gasket is getting worn in places. I also have my 15 year old son helping with this job. He did a great job getting it apart and he installed one of the rollers. It's not tricky or difficult at all. Take pictures as you go just in case something tries to "fight you" when putting it back together.

In the past, I replaced some electronic components on our gas dryer, the solenoid and the electronic ignitor, but the rest of the dryer looked more difficult to repair if needed in the future. I was wrong. I went unto AppliancePartsPros.com and watched some repair videos on dryers like mine that make big thumping sounds while drying. This happened when I googled my dryer model number in an attempt to find out is capacity, because I wanted our new dryer to have the same capacity. I found out through the repair videos I could have a broken blower wheel, could be two worn back rollers, could be stretched out drive belt and worn drive belt idler pulley. So I ordered all those parts, $130. Anything I didn't remove from its packing I had 365 days to return for full refund minus shipping. The repairs didn't appear to be too difficult. This is what I found when I took the dryer apart. -The two back roller wheels that support and allow the rear big dryer drum rim were riding off track on the drum leaving evidence of skid marks out of the track, like the drum was wobbling some as it rotated. When I removed the worn drive belt, I noticed black skid marks on the plastic idler pulley., likely the drive belt had stretched some and was slipping on the idler pulley. This could be some of reason for the thumpy noise, though I was not convinced that I had found the root-cause of the noise. The back roller steel drive shaft axles looked fine, so I didn't replace them, just cleaned them up and put anti-seeze paste on them (molycote lube that I use so brake pads move easier would've been a better choice). It would've been very difficult to remove them, and as I learned after doing this repair, a waste of effort. The two front teflon bearing pads that support and allow the front of the drum to rotate looked good, so I didn't replace those two items. I still was not certain as too what was causing the loud thumpy noise when the dryer was on. I then opened up the blower housing, and sure enough the blower's hub had worn out and was not rotating and blowing hot air out the dryer and house, just being banged around by the electric motor drive shaft causing the thumpy sound. So, I replaced it with the new one. Our dryer was a fire waiting to happen. The inside and all the duct work in the dryer was clogged with lint. With the blower now fixed, that should solve that build-up issue and I placed a Gorilla Tape patch over a small hole in our lint screen filter, and ordered a new one in case that patch fails. (the patch is working just fine after two weeks of drying clothes) I took me about 3 hours to clean the lint out of the dryer as most of the dryer drum assembly removed. It took me about 2 hours to replace the worn out parts. In hindsight, which is always 100%, I should've gone outside and put my hand down where the dryer air is being blown out of the house. That would've told me right away that my dryer was clogged with fire starting lint, or/and my dryer blower is not working for some reason. This job was far easier than doing a car brake pad job, and I did the work in a air-conditioned room. Total cost was less than $150. The new dryer that I was going to get cost $1100. I sent the few parts I didn't use in their unopened packages for refund. I was a little concerned that the drum rotated by hand seemed too stiff, but when I ran it, it ran great. Since then I was at home depot and hand rotated a Maytag dryer drum by hand, and found the rotational stiffness was the same. So, I am convinced the re-build was done right. I found out dryer light bulbs are special like oven bulbs... they're designed to take the heat. So, I got one of those from amazon and it works great now. (I had to do a small repair to the lamp holder to keep it in place, which is more secure than it was originally.) C7 size Christmas tree bulbs, night light bulbs, or LED bulbs will burn out quickly inside hot dryers. When the plumber comes to hookup our new gas water heater, I am going to have him put a yellow gas flex hose so I can move the dryer out to vacuum behind the dryer and more easily get to and repair the metal flex that exhausts hot dryer air out of the house. Currently our dryer gas feed is all metal pipes and I can't move the dryer out. This almost made it impossible to tilt the dryer housing top up so I could remove the dryer drum. Also, since I couldn't move my dryer away from the wall to get at the rear access door to re-thread the dryer belt on the idler wheel, I found that with the damaged blower out, I had easier access to do that job from the front. I used a telescoping mirror to make sure I put the belt on the idler correctly. I used a strap hung from the ceiling to keep the front rim of the dryer drum in its mounting position while I did this brief task. I looked at a few maytag dryer belt replacement youtubes to make sure I did this belt install correctly, it is a bit unusual the way the belt is routed through a metal guide and wrapped on the idler pulley. I make this sound difficult, it wasn't, it took 5 minutes. The appliancepro video does show the correct belt orientation, but it takes a bit to freeze the right youtube frame to see it clearly. You need a cheapo box store snap-ring tool, the rest are common tools that most people have. I had spine surgery a year ago, so I don't move like I use to, so this job took me longer to complete. A 12 year old minus their iPhone could do this job with guidance in about an hour.

This pertains strictly to a Maytag model LDE7600, new in September, 1990. In service ever since. After watching How-To videos presented by Appliance Parts Pros, I decided to tackle the repair. I ordered a new belt, two new drum support roller wheels, and two new tumbler slide bearing kits. Parts arrived the next day! For this model I found it necessary to remove the front panel, top, and front shroud. all easy to get to. I also disconnected and removed the control panel. Marked each wire color next to it's pin with a felt tip maker. Then I could put the top out of the way. Finally, very easy to lift out the tumbler drum and set aside. Got out the shop vac and cleaned 27 years of lint. Removed drum support roller retainer using retainer pliers, piece of cake! Fit new rollers in a matter of minutes. Drilled out old pop rivets from the slide bearings, and popped in new sliders. Really needed to be done. Wrapped the belt around the tumbler, used the belt as a strap to re-position the tumbler into the machine. Attached the front shroud. For this model I believe one MUST use the rear access door to position the belt onto the motor and idler roller. Since I'm old and decrepit, I needed to use a wedge block and long screw driver to back off idler spring tension. But, not too hard with the long lever. Replaced the top, wired up the control panel, and attached door switch wires to the still off door panel. Plugged her in, and she run better than new. For this model I believe it was much easier to remove the top and control panel than to try to work around them. And, I suggest that if you'er going to replace the belt, it makes perfect sense to also replace the rollers and slide bearing at the same time. One thing I didn't do, but should have, is to also replace the worn out rubber cups on the bottom of the four screw leg levelers.

Info on the Appliance Parts Pros website was great. Excellent diagnostics. I entered the dryer model number and said it was "noisy". The top 5 problems were immediately listed and I knew from their explanation it had to be the drum support rollers. Then I watched the "how to repair" video and determined from that video that I could give it the DIY try. Things to note. First, the model number in the video (LDE9316ACE) was the same but my dryer was not exactly the same. My dryer was purchased in 1997 by the prior homeowner so I got 23 years out of it before any problems. I must have had an older model, nonetheless, the steps to repair the dryer were in line with the video so no problems there. Second, the video shows the repair in a wide-open space. If you're like me, your dryer is not in a wide-open space, and therefore you could have some limitations (for me, I could angle the top of the dryer up but I could not lift it all the way up because I have a dehumidifier installed above the dryer). This was not a big deal but is something to note. Third, you should change as much as you need while you have it opened up. For example, I changed the belt along with the drum support rollers. Lastly, and this was my only beef. The hardest part of the repair was the limited access, both physically and visually, to the belt and the belt rollers. In the video, it appeared there was plenty of space and light to get two hands easily to the belt and unhook/re-hook it. I could only get my left hand in around the motor and drum then had to push up the belt tension spring (on other side of the motor) with a 1x2 piece of wood using my right hand, and I had no direct line of sight to the belt rollers. I also took a video using an iPhone of how the belt was connected PRIOR to taking it off the belt rollers (VERY IMPORTANT when you need to reattach). You should video the belt system prior to disassembly from multiple viewpoints and you should note where it wraps around the drum. Anyway, got it fixed on my own at about $100 in parts and shipping costs and it now runs very quietly. So 5 stars to Appliancepartspros for the web and video info.