Whirlpool W10324651 Drum Mounting Hub OEM Part

This repair was performed on a Whirlpool Cabrio clothes washer Model # WTW5640XW0 which has the digital electronic controls rather than the older style timer, electro/mechanical controls. This washer was made in 2010. Simply having the diagnostic programs on this machine is wonderful and they work remarkably well and led me to the shifter/rpm sensor component straight away. It was a simple replacement by tipping the washer onto its front and accessing through the bottom. The machine was put back into service having passed all diagnostics and re-calibration. It worked for about a month. I had noticed on the removed part that the translucent window on the rpm sensor had gotten dirty and I cleaned it up thinking that was perhaps the only problem. I saved the part in case it might be needed in the future and was functional with the cleaning. On the subsequent failure, diagnostics led me to the same part and I discovered that the rpm window was as dirty as the part that I had replaced when it was removed and it was only a month old rather than 7 years old. I suspected a bad stationary tub seal was allowing some leakage into the transmission and the spinning parts were distributing it all over the inside of the transmission where the sensor is, and it was just enough that it would seep, get thrown all over, and dry. The scum on the rpm sensor lens was a dried brown crust and hard to remove. Therefore, I resolved to completely disassemble the washer, replace the seal, and refurbish anything in need. I found the spin basket, agitator, concentric drive shafts, and hub parts badly corroded and practically welded together. I thought it was never going to come apart and I'd have to replace the spin basket and transmission, so we went shopping for a new washer. However, with much pounding with larger hammers and liberal amounts of penetrating oil, everything separated. The only parts needed were the seal and the three hub parts that secure the basket and agitator to the transmission shafts. All back together, the first diagnostic pass failed at the spin cycle AGAIN! Time to resurrect the older shifter/rpm sensor module and VOILA! Success! The newer shifter/rpm module had in fact failed beyond the suspected lens cleanings, but the older one was still viable. It is not often that a DIYer like myself gets totally familiar with an appliance that fails and I always wonder if the effort is worth expending. But, for the adventuresome...duty calls.

We replaced the tub seal. Repair probably took longer than needed as the hub & drive block assembly had adhered to each other due to detergent and mineral accumulation. Nothing a wire brush and some penetrating oil couldn't handle, though. While replacing the seal required a near complete tear-down of the washer, I have to say it was not a difficult repair. Highly recommend spanner wrench sold on this site (TJ90TB123A) for this project.

Followed directions on you tube video from parts pros com.

Researched problem and found that transmission bearing was bad and the tub seal was leaking which caused the bearing failure. I ordered the transmission, tub seal, drive block assembly, splutch assembly, drive belt and wash plate bolt. I replaced the other items because of the age of the washer and I already had them off to replace the transmission. Everything went smooth on the replacement after I watched the videos relevant for the repair. The biggest issue was the drive block because it had corroded. I used a dremel tool to cut it into to remove. I did purchase a spanner wrench to remove the basket drive spanner nut, $13.00. Did the recalibration per instructions and washer is now quiet and no leaks. Great videos.

Replaced gear case and drive block kit. Removed lock nut as explained, Then, had to cut and split both components to get them off the shaft. I used a "Dremel" rotary cutting disc tool to cut into the components to make cracking the parts with a chisel easier, as shown in the video. I followed the Appliance Parts videos for the gear case and the drive block kit. Other company's online videos did not show how to remove the ceased corroded parts. Note: using a scraper under the flange cut the molded plastic anti-slide blocks under the flange. I cut shallow grooves into the basket at each block and put slow curing "JB Weld" epoxy onto each block location before installing the flange. The epoxy filled the block spaces and squeezed out as I screwed the flange in place.