Whirlpool W10307362 Infinite Switch Kit OEM Part

After disconnecting the range from its power supply, I removed the glass cooktop (be careful of the gasket which may be quite dirty and disintegrating) by removing the stainless steel trim pieces (3) and clips (2) that hold the cooktop on left and right sides. I then removed screws that hold the control panel top the front of the range. With screws removed, the panel can flip forward, revealing back sides the infinite switches. I carefully examined the location and mounting points of the old wiring harness, noting how each burner is fed by a different set of color-coded wires. I arranged the new wiring harness over the old so that the color groups matched. It was then a matter of removing an old wire from its burner connection and replacing it with the matching wire from the new harness. This should be done one connection at a time to avoid confusing what connector goes where, Note that some wires of one color have markings (white dashes or black dashes) on the insulation that need to be matched to the proper burner connection. Pliers are needed get the lugs off some connections. Be careful how you pull. The ceramic edges of the burners are fragile. You'll encounter a black wire in the older harness that runs to a white nylon connector. Pull this wire from the connector. The new harness does not have a replacement for this connection. When all the burner connections were made, I removed the old harness from the range by pulling the plastic and wire clamps that held it in and removing the harness connections to the old switches. I folded the back right burner back to get access to the power connection mounting strip. Here you will remove red, white, and black connections of the old harness and replace them with the matching connectors in the new harness. Nuts hold these in place, so you'll need a socket wrench. I then dressed the new harness around the inside edge of the chassis where the old harness ran. There are new plastic clips provided with the new harness, however, you'll need to save the metal ring clips to reuse. Note that original switches for this model have connections that run back to a PC board. These are not used by the new switches. Also note that the LEDs slide off a red plastic post in one direction only. The new indicator lamps will slide over these posts. After disconnecting the PC board connections and LEDs I removed the old switches by undoing the screws that hold them to the panel. I then mounted the new switches being careful to note where the one single burner and three dual burner switches are located. The new switches are marked "single" or "dual" in blue. The label goes at the bottom and the blue wiring harness plug will match the socket with the blue markings. White wiring harness connectors plug in on the other side of the switches. All connectors go in only one way. I slid the new indicator lamps over the red plastic posts. I looped and taped up the purple wires running to the PC board so that they were out of the way and allowed the control panel to be secured back in place without binding them or being too close to the front burners. I then reassembled the range. All worked as it should. It's a good idea to vacuum the burners before reassembly to remove any dust or debris that might burn.

I consider myself to be a pretty decent handyman so when I discovered the cause of my burners not working was due to a faulty switch, I decided to do the repair myself. The wiring harness that comes with the infinite switch kit is well worth the money. The cables are laid out exactly like they need to be and the lengths of the cables perfectly match where they terminate onto the burners. This was a time-consuming repair though. It took me about 4 hours start-to finish. This includes pulling the stove/range out of my cabinet and then reinstalling it. This also included me taking a few breaks here and there, but I never encountered a roadblock with the repair that was too difficult to overcome. The most difficult part of the repair for me was getting the old wiring harness off of some of the burners. I eventually used a pair of needle nose pliers to bend back the old connectors so they would slip off more easily. This repair could likely be done in less than the 4 hours it took me, but I did it on a Saturday when I had plenty of time and I moved along slowly in order to make sure I did everything correctly. I also took advantage of this time to clean the stove/range where dust and debris had accumulated. Overall this was a fairly straightforward repair for those willing to get their hands dirty and do a little work. If spending 4+ hours on a repair scares you, you might be better off calling a professional. Even still, a pro would easily take 2-3 hours or longer. This repair involved removing a lot of pieces just to get into the wiring harness and burner area.

Prepared by ordering parts. Parts arrived, with complete step by step instructions specific to my KitchenAid slide-in range. Disassembled range glass top. Changing out switch would require changing out harness to match connectors. Removed identical unused back burner control switch, swapped out with defective front burner control switch. Reassembled, replaced switch operated perfectly. Parts in que for return. THANK YOU APPLIANCE PROS! Without your help I would have spent $400. fixing a fourteen year old range.

I installed the new switch kit 4232141 that replaces all 4 burner switches and the complete wiring harness for all 4 burners.

We exchange the completely wiring system and now is working 10 %