Whirlpool WP8268342 Lower Spray Arm Support OEM Part

We initially noticed the dishwasher running loud and failing to completely clean dishes. Research suggested issues like this were normally caused by either the main circulation motor or the drain motor. Over the next week the noise worsened, and it became obvious that the circulation motor had went (loud whirring noise whenever the spin cycle kicked in). I watched a couple youtube videos on the removal and dissassembly until I felt confident that my wife and I could handle the project. For the most part everything went according to plan, but I will highlight 2 points that deviated from the appliancepartspro video posted on the circulation pump page: 1. The video shows a model with an electrical cord - mine had been hard wired. Not a big issue, and certainly something that would be readily apparent to someone with a little more experience. It took me some time to find and disconnect the connections, but no major harm done. Obviously, killing the power at the breaker first is paramount. 2. Seating the new pump assembly into the washer. This step threw us for a couple of frustrating hours (lunch break included). The video shows the new assembly going in after moistening the rubber seal with some force. For one reason or another, we had a heck of a time getting the thing to seat right. Eventually, I picked up on a tip from another commenter to use dish soap to grease the opening in the washer, and really soaked the seal around the replacement assembly with water. We got it to sit as level as possible, and then I would push one side and my wife would slide the retaining clip in from the bottom. Wear knee pads if you have them for this step. All in all, this project was not terrible - it took most of a Saturday afternoon. If you're moderately confident unscrewing things and can follow directions, it's very doable. Just expect a couple curveballs (par for the diy course, I suppose).

The old sprayer hub had worn to where one side was worn through and the other edge was still almost as thick as the new one. I think the sprayarm bearing had worn through at some point and was no longer providing protection between the moving parts. I replaced both parts and the dishes seem to be much cleaner. Another forum mentioned that water pressure could be lost through 'gaps' like that and cleaning would be effected. I also had to clean soap scum out of some of the ports on the middle spray arm. This allowed the arm to spin better during cleaning. Another item I replaced was the spray tube that goes up the back of the tube and has the flapper valves for the center rack in it. Those had become calcified and would not close anymore allowing water pressure for the center spray arm to be lost. Replacing the flapper valves seemed to help with cleaning as well. Dishes come out nice and clean now. I also fixed a minor leak near the front right-side of the door. I had to tighten the large plastic nut that holds the float assembly in. It was about 3/4 to 1 turn loose and caused the leak. Tightening the nut cured the leak.

Fix went fine. Found a piece of a frying pan handle lodged under the accumulator assembly. Removed and noise fixed. Your video was extremely helpful in showing exactly how to disassemble without damaging various plastic parts!

New spray arm hub and bearing.

Ordered the part and the bearing which looks like a thin clear gasket. Dropped it into the opening, Placed the bearing and rotated the hub into place. Used the old, stripped hub to realign the metal on the spray arm and then reinstalled the spray arm on the New Spray Hub. Check rotation. Smooth. Checked for debris. Closed the door and started a light wash program. The repair is quiet, the jets are working and the spray arm rotates perfectly. 10 years and its the first repair. Thank you Appliance Parts Pros and Samurai Appliance Repair for information and very fast parts.