Whirlpool W11088181 Infinite Switch Top Burner Control Switch OEM Part

Based on internet search and data found on APPLIANCE PARTS PRO, I deduced that the "infinite control " module was most likely bad. Replaced it and all is good. Toughest part was remembering how to disengage cooktop from down draft blower and then pulling the cook top up in within it's opening. Once pulled up, I put short 2x4's across the opening corners to support the cooktop safely while I worked on it. Next issue was figuring out exactly which screws held the glass top in place. As part of this repair, I've marked the cook top chassis with a Sharpie pointing to the right screws so next time (there will be a next time!) I will know which screws must be removed to free the top, from those that hold other internal parts in place! By the way, a nut driver bit in my battery powered driver made the task quick and easy. CAUTIONS: 1) Be sure to turn off power! 2) Move the wires "one by one" from the OLD control to corresponding pin on the NEW control so the wiring doesn't get mixed up.

Apparently the wiring on the older Jenn-Air units has changed since the release of the instructions for the dual element switch... If you have the Older Jenn-Air CVE3400 as I did, follow the following instructions for Wiring: From Top Left Moving clockwise... Move 5 -> S2 on new switch Move N -> P2 on new switch (This is a compound wire connection, one wire to power feed, the other to L2 on Left front switch) Move 4 -> 4a on new switch Move 3 -> 4 on new switch Move 2 -P1 on new switch Run jumper from Second P1 to S1, Both on new switch Now you will have an unoccupied "2" terminal. Go to the infinite switch for the right front burner and find the compound "red" wire connection @ L2. Disconnect the Compound connection and install new connectors. Take the wire from L2 (daisy chained to the other switches and re-attach to L2 on the right front switch. You will now be left with a red wire that runs to the dual burner @ back left. ReRoute that wire to the unoccupied "2" on the dual burner infinite switch. Test and reinstall. The last steps were never identified in any instructions... I had to work backwards from the original wiring schematic to determine how it should be run. No instructions were delivered in the package, and the sheet emailed to me had incorrect confusing instructions... Hope this helps!

1) Throw circuit breaker to off and verify at stove top 2) Removed down-vent cover 3) Removed 6 screws connecting vent and fan to stove-top 4) Lifted stove-top to top of counter exposing remaining 8 screws 5) Lifted off trim rim and ceran plates exposing burner elements and switches 6) Removed 4 screws and switch retainer plate 7) Removed bad switch and placed new one (2 screws) 8) Reassemble switch retainer plate and test all burners 9) Reassemble in reverse order above (steps 5-1) 10) Reset circuit breaker to on. Note: Removal and replacement steps are fairly easy but some screws are in confined spaces. The worst part is cleaning the grease gunk off of the plates and trim.

The switch was in a Jenn-Air branded Maytag cooktop, so the access was different from that shown in the video for the part. I had to remove the wiring from the old switch and tape up the terminals to get the other burners powered up, so I had to label the wires as they came off. One more complication: the switch was held on with Torx T15 screws. It is worth mentioning replacement mounting screws are not included with the part. As always, the part was an exact replacement so there were no issues there. Another review mentioned their other switches were worn as well so I ought to replace the other front burner switch before it fails; the inside of the original showed a lot of wear on the 15 year old brass parts.

I looked up the parts on appliancepartspros.com, made the order, and was amazed how fast the parts arrived! I was able to watch their repair video and it showed me how to change it step by step.