Whirlpool WP67003426 Defrost Thermostat OEM Part

Toughest part of this repair is figuring out how to get things apart. Amana doesn't provide you a repair manual showing how to disengage the various plastic covers. Initially disassembled the bottom freezer compartment so I could get to the evaporator coils; they were completely frozen in block of ice, restricting air flow to the fridge above. Obviously, the auto defrost cycle had not been running, or was short-cycling. Manually defrosted. Found this link for running diagnostic tests on the JAZZ control board: http://applianceassistant.com/Refrigerator-Repair/W10503278-Refrigerator-Control-Diagnostics-Repair.php. Useful set of tests. Defrost circuit test passed, but defrost obviously not working, so suspected control (JAZZ) board [high failure item based on other reviews]. Replaced JAZZ board, but to be on the safe side, also replaced both thermistors and the defrost thermostat while I had everything apart - hence the long repair time. Appears to be working again now. Control board was actually the easiest part of the repair, once I figured out how to get to it. For others with this model: 1) Remove light cover by sliding it toward the back of the fridge; 2) remove the light bulbs; 3) Open control board compartment by using flat-blade screwdriver to disengage two plastic tabs on back side of compartment (this is the tough part); 4) Cover will hinge down and you will now see the control board (and the fridge thermistor, should you choose to replace it too); 5) Note how the old board is actually two pieces, the display being connected by a ribbon cable to the main board - when you get your new board, it will be flat - you need to very carefully separate the display along the scored line on the board to extend the display cable and orient the display properly - be very careful and support the main part of the board on a solid surface while you gently flex the display portion to separate it; 6) Disengage old board and display from holder by releasing retaining tabs one for each section; 7) Center new board on the supports and engage retaining tab; 8) Reassemble everything by reversing steps 1-4 and you're done. If you choose to replace the temp sensor (thermistor), you will need to cut the old one out and splice the new one in (wire nuts are supplied in the thermistor kit), but the control board is much more likely to be at fault based on all the reviews I have read. I ran resistance checks on both of the thermistors and the defrost thermostat I replaced, and they all checked out good - I could have just done the control board and probably solved my problem, but we don't have a backup fridge and I didn't want to disassemble everything a second time.

I had had the same problem 4 or 5 years ago and spent close to $200 to repair it. I did have the slip from that repair with part #'s so I went ahead and ordered a defrost timer and thermostat. You-tube had plenty of videos on replacing those parts and even before they arrived I was able to add a switch and bypass the broken thermostat and start a cycle manually with the timer. (which it seems was was still functional). Between that and cycling some ice packs up from the still working freezer I lost very little food. The service from here was quick and accurate, I got real OEM parts in a short time. Thank you.

First, I turned the breaker off, removed all the food and put a fan in front of the open freezer door (French Door model) and defrosted for a few hours then turned the unit back on and reloaded the food. It worked for a week then happened again. I ordered a new defrost thermostat but before putting the food back in, I removed the old thermostat and tested it in the ice water routine. It failed the test so, I thought I was on the right track. The unit worked well enough till the new part arrived. I tested the NEW part and the OLD part and BOTH failed the ice water test!!!! With nothing to lose, I put the new one in anyhow and it has worked PERFECTLY for several days. Out of curiosity, I put the old thermostat in the freezer (at zero degrees) overnight and tested it. It worked perfectly after an overnight cold soak. Not sure I accept that the cold water test as an accurate measure of the function of thermostat. BUT the new thermostat DID make the difference and I am going with that!!! I did notice that with the OLD thermostat, the freezer control would not adjust properly --- got cold but seemed to have it's own mind. It wanted to go much colder than I wanted so, I let it stay down there. With the NEW thermostat in place, I can adjust it to my preferred setting which is zero. Replacing the thermostat was just a few minutes but moving the food and defrosting can take w couple of hours. Good luck!!!

The refrigerator was warm but the freezer was cold. Turn off the refrigerator for 24 hours. Plugged the refrigerator back in, the compressor was not kicking on but the condenser fan and evaporator fan were running. Pulled start relay, measured between two bottom points found Open.. replaced start relay and capacitor and compressor stared immediately and everything worked normally.

Although I replaced the heater coil the root cause was the sensor on evaporator return copper tube. I ordered both parts and choose to test the heater coil first. To rest heater coil I had to remove coil in order to access connectors at each end to measure resistance. Due to the level of difficulty in removing coil,I choose to replace coil while I had it out. The sensor is a much easier repair. The online Videos would have been nice before I purchased parts. One of the videos (heater coil replacement) didn't represent the model I had but was general enough for me to understand the procedure.