Whirlpool 280187 Washer Drain Pump Assembly OEM Part

I have a 12 year old Kenmore Elite washer. One day, suddenly, I heard a grinding noise and the washer abruptly stopped. I called a repair service and was told it could be the bearings in the drum of this front-load washer, or it could be the washer's drain pump, which automatically shuts down when the drain pump fails. The repairman said, if it is the drum, it wasn't worth fixing for the age of this washer. It would cost $85 for him to come out and diagnose the problem, then if I decide to fix it, the cost of repair would be additional parts & labor. The total cost for the repair for a drain pump, including initial visit, would be over $350. I took the cheaper route and attempted to replace the drain pump myself. If couldn't fix it, I would junk the washer and buy a new one. I figure the repairman's visit would cost as much as the part. So, I went online and found AppliancePartsPros.com. Three things convinced me to purchase from them: I could return the drain pump if it didn't fix the problem; the helpful video convinced me it was a doable project even for someone like me with limited mechanical skills; and when speaking to customer service, the representative was helpful and friendly. Well, I can tell you that it was a success story. The part came within the week after I ordered it. It wasn't difficult to change out the drain pump assembly (took about an hour), and the old washer is firing on all cylinders (hopefully!) again. So, for you DIYers, if your washer suddenly stops, and if it's not the belt or bearings, check out the drain pump. Sometimes it is as simple as a small sock that got out of the drum in the spin cycle and is clogging the pump. In my case, it was a worn out drain pump.

I first removed then catch on the pump housing and found it was full of a collection of 13 year old solidified detergent and other junk (including 5 coins incrusted in the junk). I then cleaned the trap and replaced it back in the pump housing. I ran the washer several times and still got the error 2 out of 3 times. I then ordered the replacement pump from Appliance Parts Pros. The pump arrived in 2 days. Yeah! I had previously watched the video on how to replace the washer pump. Unplug the washer and shut off the water. Remove the bottom cover by unscrewing the 3- T-20 screws. Flip up the power connector cover and remove the power connector. At this point, get a towel and place it close to the hoses connection before you remove the first hose. Use channel lock pliers to remove the hose clamps on the pump. Expect a rush of water out of the first hose you remove from the pump. I found a shorter handle channel lock pliers worked better to get in position to remove the hose clamps. My pump had a #2 philips head screw in the front of the base holding it in the washer. Removing it I was able to remove the old pump. I had to use the smaller rubber bushings on the back of the pump to fit my washer. On the front of the pump, I had to remove the bushing an use the grommet and brass bushing. I was then able to install the new pump. Make sure the bushings on the back of the pump are correctly inserted in the holes in the washer. Reinstall the hoses, the power connector and then the bottom cover and you are done. Congratulations. I did a tear down of the old pump. The impeller was partially worn away and would wobble and jam on the pump housing. Definitely a bad pump.

I have a Kenmore front loading washing machine (model 110.42822201). Using the great information I found on Appliancepartspro.com, I confirmed that I needed a new pump assembly. I ordered a new pump from the site. I then found a possible cause for the pump failure was a high build up of nasty "gunk" in the drain hoses. While waiting for the ordered pump to arrive, I removed the black rubber drain bellows containing the ball check valve going to the inlet of the pump, the drain hose going from the output of the pump to the plastic elbow going to the discharge outlet on the back of the washer, and finally the black discharge hose outside of the washing machine to carry the waste water to the sewer. Using a three foot length of small chain with an old rag wired to one end, I managed to feed it through several times to clean all the nasty "gunk" out of the drain hoses. The check ball was really coated in a big blob of nasty slime. No wonder the pump failed trying to push water out of the hoses. The pump arrived earlier than scheduled. Additional rubber parts were included for my model and installation was easy after viewing the pump installation video conviently posted on the Appliancepartspros.com site. The washer worked perfectly after I reinstalled the hoses and both top and lower bottom front panels I removed for the repair. I think I should be good for another 10 years of washing. I am a very pleased customer with the technical advice posted here, the do itself videos, and the availability of parts for my appliance. My wife has now done about 15 loads of laundry since the repair and no issues with SUD or "F" error codes.

Whirlpool Duet Washer quit spinning, was getting the suds alarm, then the F2 fault code. Called the neighborhood appliance fix-it guy. He looked at it for a minute or so and decided we needed to spend $1200 on a new washing machine, said the motor was going out, and they were really expensive. Kinda got the same story on the ice dispenser on our refrigerator a few years back, which is how I found Appliance Parts Pro to begin with. Repaired that one for under a $100. Not long after, the Samsung Authorized Repairman wanted $250 for an oven element + service call + labor and told us it was going to take 10+ days to get it. Was the week before Thanksgiving, not an option! Repaired that one for under $150 w/shipping, and had it up and running 8 days faster than the factory service rep figured he could get the part. Therefore I told the wife not to go rushing out buying a new washer until I looked at it. I had hoped to avoid the learning curve, but it was not to be, again. After going through a whole lot more than necessary to diagnose the problem, I determined the machine was NOT DRAINING, motor the local appliance repair retard was hearing, was the stuck drain pump motor. If you want to verify, pull the cover on the trap, front of the drain pump, and drain the water out of the machine. Everything works great up until it's supposed to drain the washer and spin, and it can't, if it's the pump, then it quits and starts throwing fault codes again. I got my pump, watched the DIY Video, simpler and easier than I expected. Have the optional drawers under our machines, used an aluminum turkey roasting pan to drain the pump in. If you pop it loose, there is just enough hose to get to the front edge of the machine. My machine had a wiring harness stretched across the front of the machine, in front of the pump, elected to squeeze the little tabs on the backside of the clips that hold it, pop it loose, and get it out of my way. Honestly took longer to drain the pump, than it did to take the machine apart and remove the pump. That part was almost scary. The hose on the back end of the pump is a bit of a pain as noted above. Was almost ready to go to the barn in search of a hose clamp, when in it popped in place. The other hose was simple and easy. Can't say enough good about Appliance Parts Pro. Always a pleasure doing business with these guys. Never had a problem with parts, always promptly shipped, and the videos always make the repair so simple it boggles the mind. Job took maybe 15 minutes, needed a plier, and I used metric socket on my cordless 1/4" impact.

Washer stopped working not being able to complete a full wash cycle late on Thursday indicating Error Code F21. "F21: Will not Drain." This can result from a blockage in the line leaving the drain pump to the Deep Sink, or a failure of the washer Drain Pump itself. I suspected the latter being the issue, as my wife informed me she washed some heavily soiled garden gloves, believing that this probably damaged the impellor for the pump. Went online on Friday afternoon and looked for an OEM replacement drain pump for our model of Maytag Washer as specified for our Washer. Removed the Washer lower panel fascia below the Front Loading Door to examine and took pictures of the drain pump and the specifications listed on the electrical motor cover section that operates the impeller for the drain pump. Discovered AppliancePartsPros.com and searched their website knowing our Washer model number and entered it in the search criteria. Verified the Drain Pump was of the same design and then ordered new OEM Drain pump from Appliance Parts Pro's that Friday! Watched their helpful video showing all the steps needed for replacement which answered any possible questions I might have later during removal and replacement. Was notified that the part would be arriving even earlier than projected and received the Item on Sunday. Had to turn OFF & ON the washer using the plug to reset cycle items. When able to Unlock the Front Loader Door, noticed a good amount of standing water and manually bailed out the Front Loading washer drum as much as possible using a plastic drink cup! Had to drain any remaining water from the washer drum hose by removing the Drain Pump Cleanout cover and letting the residual water drain out of the washer attempting to direct to a plastic tub! Had to the stuff area around the Drain Pump with towels also as there is no easy way to drain the water coming out of the drain pump from the washer drum without it spilling down the front of the washer. Mopped and wiped down the basement floor using towels. Using a wet/dry vacuum, sucked out any debris from the washer drum flexible drain hose, along with discharge line from impeller pump side to the deep sink! Removed broken Drain Pump as described in video, examining the pump impeller noticing it had broken from the shaft, most likely from washing items with heavy debris that passed through the drain basket. Installed new Drain pump aligning and installed the flexible hoses, clamping them onto the inlet and outlet ports of the new Drain Pump. Once drain pump installed and after attaching the electrical lead back onto the pump motor, ran a 30 minute wash cycle with the washer empty to observe for any leakage with the lower panel fascia removed. No leakage was observed and with the Washer now fully functional, vacuumed and wiped down the inside area of the mechanical/electrical lower section below the drum removing any grime and residual moisture from the drain pump replacement. Re-installed and temporarily shimmed the fascia panel as needed with a screwdriver to help line up holes and bolted up the washer fascia panel below the Washer Front Loader door. Resumed using the repaired washer again completing several loads of wash which had backed up with the washer down. If you are a handy and mechanically inclined individual having a decent set of tools, this job should be within your capabilities. Just take your time and think things through and during replacement as the work space is limited. Verify functionality of the Washer following repair & replacement and you are Good to Go!