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Customer Questions and Answers for Oven Control Board by Whirlpool

4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18032031
Manufacturer Part Number: WP71001799

Display going dim or blank? Oven won't turn off or heat? The control board manages temperature, timers, and functions. Moderate DIY difficulty, 1 hour.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Oven Control Board (Part Number: OEM18032031)

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Steveb for Model Number Jenn Air, SVD48600B

Original response:Hi Steve. Remove power. Then access the control board/ clock assy. Double check the terminal block for all wire connections for being tight. Use a second 3/8" brass nut part # AP4597212 on all 3 terminals to lock the first ones in place. Then you need to concentrate on all the electrical board connections. The ribbon cable needs to be inserted squarely and the side locking tabs for the ribbon cable will need to locked to hold the ribbon. Next the white J-2 connector needs to be examined closely with a magnifying glass. If any single square female pins are not fully inserted in the plug then they will loose connection at the board like you say. You can press in on the individual locking tab for the wire connector and push it in with a pick tool to slide the female connector out from the entire molex -connector. Then look at it carefully to see if the female terminal is too wide for proper connection. Is it burnt ? Repair as necessary. You can use needle nose pliers to tighten them. Try all of this and then look at the board for a loose solder joint. repair as necessary. Sorry @ the part issue. Please let us know if we can assist. you further. Thank You. Read more: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/questions-for-WHIRLPOOL-Electronic-oven-control-assembly-AP4088560-qid38741.aspx#q38741#ixzz1jwuBemlu http://www.appliancepartspros.com Ok, I did as requested, and I saw nothing that is readily, or easily identifiable. When I reconnected it, I got an F- error. While I cannot remember at this point, I think I got it when I originally installed the replacement back in November. I know that I've gotten it each time that I checked all the connections. The ribbon is seated squarely, and holder is locked down- J3 connector. I checked the J1, and J2 connectors, I see nothing that is obviously an issue. None of the pins are bent, none of the pins appeared to be burnt, nor do any of the connectors appear to be burnt. In checking to see if any solder joints are bad, my eyes aren't THAT good. I used a magnifying glass, and they all appear fine to me. I checked all the larger components on the board, and while some appear to be movable, I can't tell if its the casing that's movable, or if it's due to the wiring connections gone bad. I did use a magnifying glass, and the best I can tell-- it's just the casing of the connectors that are loose. In looking at the front of the clock/control assembly, I do see where the burnt mark at the upper left corner of the screen appears-- just as it did with the old one I'd replaced. Two things that come to mind here--1- does the burnt upper left corner mean there's another issue. 2- the F- error message says that I have a j2 connector communication error between boards, the comment says- J2 harness, ohm wires end to end. Harness ok, replace display board. What does j2 harness, ohm wires end to end mean? What's next? tyia.

Answer

Hi Steve. This means that you need to remove the harness altogether. Then you use the ohm meter to put the meter on Rx1 scale (lowest)and then touch the lead ends together momentarily to see a 0-or .01 reading, if it beeps automatically this will be better yet. This way you are certain the meter is working correctly. Then find the # 1 terminal on each plug end. It should have a # 1 terminal on one end with no # 2 beside it. This spot will be blank noting the correct plug side because of the blank the # 2 terminal starts there after the blank port. #3 terminal, #4 terminal so on and so forth as needed per circuit. So you ohm out all terminals one at a time for open connections (break in connections or the wires). This is easier w/ 2 people as one will work w/you on one end to hold the meter lead. Corresponding w/ you at the same time. This will cause the F-2 code. The black spot on the upper corner of the control board (same as new one ) may not necessarily denote an issue. In repair experience the f-2 should be a communication issue from the clock if all wire connections are good and tight. Since both boards are the same age, it is most unfortunate that sometimes it is necessary to change both parts. Clock part # WP71001799. The F-3 code is a bad oven sensor not ohming to 1080-1,100 ohms part # 12001656. Thank You.

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Answered by AppliancePartsPros.com   |   Monday, January 23, 2012

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