Customer Questions and Answers for Dryer Heating Element by Whirlpool

Tracy, It sounds like it may be the timer that may have failed. For the heater circuit you will want to start at the heater and check for voltage. Check between terminals BK and R with unit in heat cycle for 240 vac. If there is 240 vac but the heater is not working then the heater is bad and needs to be replaced. If there is not 240 vac then go from each terminal to chassis ground and check for 120 vac on each side. This will tell you which side you are loosing voltage. If the voltage is the side which goes to the terminal block then you will want to check for voltage at the motor switch 2M to chassis ground for 120 vac. If there is power at this point then the motor switch is bad and needs to be replaced. If there is no power then you have a bad terminal block. If there is power to the L2 side of the heater but not coming back from timer then you will need to do a continuity test on the thermostats and thermal fuses. If any do not have continuity then they are bad and need to be replaced. If they check ok then you will want to test from BK to R on the timer for 240 vac. If there is 240 vac then the timer is bad and will need to be replaced. On the unit not shutting off, you will first want to see if there are any wires that are damaged and shorting to ground. This would most likely be the blue wire coming off timer to the motor. If the unit does not shut off when the door is open then you would want to check the door switch for opening when the door is open. This can be tested by checking White to violet on the door switch. With door open if there is continuity then you will need to replace the door switch. If the blue wire from timer checks ok then you have a bad timer and would need to replace it.