Bosch 00361113 Dishwasher Sump To Float Hose OEM Part

Used vids on youtube for steps on how to disassemble and install the pump; search "Bosch dishwasher circulation pump replacement". Also on AppliancePartsPro forums, a poster put up the Bosch "Dishwasher Service Training Manual" in .pdf. Search "Bosch dishwasher low pressure" on the forum. It's one of the post with the longest thread. Six pointers. 1. In another forum post, the poster noted that some hoses were brittle with age - and cracked when reinstalling. I had same issue (my washer is ten years old), but forewarned had ordered the two hoses. These are Bosch PN 361113 and 263099 (I have a SHY66C05). You disconnect and reconnect both these when installing the new circulating pump. My 361113 was also brittle and I could not get it reinstalled. Plastic deformed when I tried to reinstall. Swapped for new, which went in like butter. Other hose I did not end up needing. Order these and return if not needed. Other poster had to wait another day to get the needed hose in. Super aggravating to have to wait to reassemble. Wife also will not be happy. 2. On the pump outlet side, there is a one time use hose clamp: this can be reused, but take care not to deform it taking it off. I had slightly damaged mine, reassembled my washer and it leaked from this connection. Then found that my local hardware store did not have narrow clamps, rebent mine to close to original condition, re-installed, and luckily it worked. If I knew that I was going to re-use it, I would have been more careful getting it off. Use two flathead screwdrivers. There's a raised part on the clamp (where a normal clamp would have a screw). Push on this raised part to tighten - to release tension on holding pin. Use other screwdriver to gently pry up on the clamp's lip that's engaging the holding pin. This unfortunately may take three hands - a helper may need to hold the pump assembly while you use the two screwdrivers. 3. There are 10-12 different kinds of screws across the different disassembly steps. Get a muffin pan and use a separate compartment for each set of screws. Or lay out a dozen post-its and put each set of screws on a different post-it. 4. All the screws are T-20 torx. If you don't have a dedicated T-20 torx driver, you may need one. I had a multi-head driver with torx, but the shaft was too fat to fit in the opening to remove the front kick plate support. Caused me to go to hardware store before getting 5 minutes into the disassembly. If you don't have a dedicated T-20 driver, get one before you start the disassembly. 5. Agree with other poster, wear gloves when working with the stainless panels - edges are sharp. 6. Run a couple times before totally reassembling to make sure that there are no leaks. I didn't do a full cycle, buttoned it back up, then had "flood" condition - where drain pump runs continuously even when door is open - because of standing water in the pan. Had to disassemble a second time. Four possible leak locations... going from right to left (while facing front of washer). Circulation pump inlet and outlet (another poster - a bosch repair person said that these are the culprit 7 of 10 times), drain pump, and water supply/management assembly. Each of these four locations have low points on the pan; so get a good flashlight, watch these low points, run the dishwasher a couple times to make sure no leaks (I ran mine twice, then buttoned it back up).

I watched the repair videos and read the reviews for both repairs prior to placing my parts order. Other reviewers had suggested ordering two hoses that could possibly break during the repair, so I did that as they were pretty cheap. I had the repair video for the circulation pump up during the repair and completed the valve replacement during that session. The valve replacement was a piece of cake. I followed the circulation pump repair video exactly, and it went really well. I have a Thermador dishwasher instead of a Bosch, but the only difference was some extra insulation and side panels. The dishwasher acted like new after starting it back up. This is a great site for DIYers.

I bought the drain hose, the sump to the water inlet hose, and the sump to the float hose. All three fit perfectly. My only serious problem was connecting the drain hose to the air gap. Since the air gap unit was placed in the cabinet before the dishwasher was originally installed, it was difficult to access because of the water and drain lines now in place.

I tracked down each part either in my local hardware store or online and I replaced each hose; from supply to drain and everything in between

Replaced inlet valve. Damaged inlet hose also replaced.