How to Troubleshoot & Replace Bosch AP2802387 / 00263099 Dishwasher Sump To Water Inlet Hose

Used vids on youtube for steps on how to disassemble and install the pump; search "Bosch dishwasher circulation pump replacement". Also on AppliancePartsPro forums, a poster put up the Bosch "Dishwasher Service Training Manual" in .pdf. Search "Bosch dishwasher low pressure" on the forum. It's one of the post with the longest thread. Six pointers. 1. In another forum post, the poster noted that some hoses were brittle with age - and cracked when reinstalling. I had same issue (my washer is ten years old), but forewarned had ordered the two hoses. These are Bosch PN 361113 and 263099 (I have a SHY66C05). You disconnect and reconnect both these when installing the new circulating pump. My 361113 was also brittle and I could not get it reinstalled. Plastic deformed when I tried to reinstall. Swapped for new, which went in like butter. Other hose I did not end up needing. Order these and return if not needed. Other poster had to wait another day to get the needed hose in. Super aggravating to have to wait to reassemble. Wife also will not be happy. 2. On the pump outlet side, there is a one time use hose clamp: this can be reused, but take care not to deform it taking it off. I had slightly damaged mine, reassembled my washer and it leaked from this connection. Then found that my local hardware store did not have narrow clamps, rebent mine to close to original condition, re-installed, and luckily it worked. If I knew that I was going to re-use it, I would have been more careful getting it off. Use two flathead screwdrivers. There's a raised part on the clamp (where a normal clamp would have a screw). Push on this raised part to tighten - to release tension on holding pin. Use other screwdriver to gently pry up on the clamp's lip that's engaging the holding pin. This unfortunately may take three hands - a helper may need to hold the pump assembly while you use the two screwdrivers. 3. There are 10-12 different kinds of screws across the different disassembly steps. Get a muffin pan and use a separate compartment for each set of screws. Or lay out a dozen post-its and put each set of screws on a different post-it. 4. All the screws are T-20 torx. If you don't have a dedicated T-20 torx driver, you may need one. I had a multi-head driver with torx, but the shaft was too fat to fit in the opening to remove the front kick plate support. Caused me to go to hardware store before getting 5 minutes into the disassembly. If you don't have a dedicated T-20 driver, get one before you start the disassembly. 5. Agree with other poster, wear gloves when working with the stainless panels - edges are sharp. 6. Run a couple times before totally reassembling to make sure that there are no leaks. I didn't do a full cycle, buttoned it back up, then had "flood" condition - where drain pump runs continuously even when door is open - because of standing water in the pan. Had to disassemble a second time. Four possible leak locations... going from right to left (while facing front of washer). Circulation pump inlet and outlet (another poster - a bosch repair person said that these are the culprit 7 of 10 times), drain pump, and water supply/management assembly. Each of these four locations have low points on the pan; so get a good flashlight, watch these low points, run the dishwasher a couple times to make sure no leaks (I ran mine twice, then buttoned it back up). 

(It's the middle of the three tubes you can see on the side) Tube is held into both ends by friction of o-ring. End that is nearest also has a plastic clip to keep it on. Removed that plastic clip, then both ends are held in by friction. Removed tube by carefully pulling on nearest end until tube is loose. About the same for the other end... there is a small friction fork-like clip that it can be freed from before pulling out the tube in much the same manner as the other end. Replacement is opposite of removal - a little grease on o-rings didn't seem to hurt either. (non-petroleum based, they're likely rubber) No tools needed, but the tools listed were for removing dishwasher from under cabinet. 

Bacteria buildup in the venting assembly and drain hose. Replaced them and it's back to normal 

Dishwasher would not run. When I turned the unit on the sump/drain pump would run continuously. Disassembled the dishwasher side panel and noticed water had filled the lower tray. I turned off the water to the unit and emptied all the water from the tray using a sponge and paper towels. Then I turned the supply water back on and looked for the leak. The leak was coming from the sump drain hose at the point where the hose sits on a support post near the outlet of the sump/drain pump. I pulled out the hose and saw that there was a hole in it. Bought a new hose from Appliance Pros. Reinstalled the new hose and it was fixed. 

Replaced 20 year old hoses, age-embrittled with pinhole leaks. Leaks only visible from the side under pressure, so had to jury rig dishwasher in garage to diagnose 

I bought the drain hose, the sump to the water inlet hose, and the sump to the float hose. All three fit perfectly. My only serious problem was connecting the drain hose to the air gap. Since the air gap unit was placed in the cabinet before the dishwasher was originally installed, it was difficult to access because of the water and drain lines now in place. 

I found the model number and went to the blue prints on the site and found the parts needed. I ordered the parts and was surprised they arrived the next day which was quicker than expected. Allowed me to get the repair done quickly. 

I tracked down each part either in my local hardware store or online and I replaced each hose; from supply to drain and everything in between 

Replaced circulation pump and hose seals. 

REPLACED HOSE