How to Troubleshoot & Replace Ge AP2622452 / WB24X10047 Door Interlock Switch

I ordered all three door switches, not knowing which one or one's were bad, but I didn't want to take it apart and have to replace more than one or order the wrong one. After removing the top vent panel (two screws) and having the door open, it exposes a screw on the top of the control panel which hold the control panel in place. After removing this screw, the control panel lifts off the frame. I found it is best to remove the control panel & plugs on the backside to access the switches. Also on the left side by the switches are two screws which hold the frame for the switches. I removed them to remove the frame holding the switches. A You-tube video said to twist the switches to remove them from the frame, DO NOT DO THIS! You will crack the frame because the back portion of two of the switches are held in place with plastic pins which are part of the frame and you will break them off. I very carefully unlocked them from the frame and lifted them out of the frame. The new switches snapped into the frame easily. Replaced the screws to remount the switch frame, connected all the plugs on the switches and control panel. Put the control panel back in place and the top vent. Re-plugged the microwave into the electrical outlet and closed the door. Worked perfectly. After checking the switches, I found that the bottom switch was bad. Now I have two replacement switches. Saved a costly service call. Took about 45 minutes, Received the replacement parts in 2 days. 

My company through out this Microwave because fear of radiation and was resdued from a dumpster, after watching repair video regardiing problems with door micro switches I decided to order and replace both door swiches. Taking the cover screws off you will need T20 Security Tee star driver which cost ~ $4.00. Once inside the door bracket was remove with three screws. Care was taken when removing defective and when replacing new micro switches in order that plastic tabs were not broken. After both micro switches were replaced and cabinet was reinstalled. I ran unit and opened the door and it stoped! I now have a great working microwave for a repair cost of about $40.00 that otherwise was going to be trashed. 

There are these switches inside the microwave next to the control panel that detect whether the door is open or closed. These switches had been burnt out, most likely because members of our household were apt to open the microwave door before the cycle was finished. It was pretty easy to replace these switches - I watched a YouTube video on repairing a GE microwave, so I knew what screws needed to come out to get access to the switches. It was a total of 4 screws initially. I snapped the old switches out and the new switches in. I put back the control panel and the vent cover. I had to take a 5th screw out to move a part over the control panel so I could snap the control panel back in. And the microwave works! So worth it! 

Replaced damaged switch but in the meantime broke part of the board latch. So, replaced that too. 

If you search for this issue online, you’ll see this is caused by a faulty door switch - the primary interlock micro switch (with the red button). This switch is at the lowest position in the bracket that holds the switches. The hardest part for me was pulling the cover off. Two screws on one side of the black cover, one on the other side and several screws in back. The cover slides back. The switches are clearly visible on the right hand side. The white door paddle presses on the switch button to actuate it. That paddle makes it a little difficult to extract the switch from its clips, but it will come out. The switch pops out sideways, not straight back like you might expect. The switch was replaced with ease, and voilá, problem solved. The oven works as it should. 

Reviewed some others tips on the issue, reviewed the diagrams, ordered the parts and installed them. Works like a charm. 

Problem was the primary interlock switch. The switch checked OK for continuity but when installed and activated by the door closing, the switch would not close due to the over travel in the switch caused by the door lever. That would have been easy and inexpensive, however when attempting to disconnect RY2 while troubleshooting the top of the relay came out which was impossible to reassemble. That mistake cost me a new main board ($180). SO, if you disconnect the relay hold the top in place while removing the connector. The only tools you need are an ohm meter and a screwdriver. Unplug the unit, remove two screws holding the top grille (tilt grille out from the top and remove), remove one screw holding the control panel in place, push up on the control panel and tilt it out from the top. The schematic is in an envelope behind the control panel. 

Replaced micro switch where door lock touches to make contact. Solved problem. Watched YouTube video first. 

Removed the top/sides cover(needs torx drivver). Tested the switch with a multimeter per instructions found in an envelope that was under the cover. Replaced bottom switch on the black plastic frame(latch board), the principal interlock switch. The latch board with 3 switches on it is just beyond the control panel as you look into the right side of the unit, Remove the two screws at the top and bottom of the latch board. With a flashlight look under the bottom switch and you will see a plastic tab that looks like the blade end of a screwdriver seen head-on. This tab is on a flexible arm of the latch board and must be pushed back enough to allow the switch to be rotated counter-clockwise, releasing it from the other plastic parts that hold it in place. After the tab is pushed back, which I did with a screwdriver, the switch rotates around a plastic pin on the latch board that is in a hole in the upper right of the switch. Pull the switch off of that pin to remove it. Place the new switch on the pin, push the tab back, and rotate the switch clockwise so it fits into the parts that hold it. When replacing the two screws that hold the latch board there is some play in its position. Make sure it is positioned so the catches on the door are fully seated down against the latch board when the door is closed. What took the most time was figuring out how to remove the bad switch and learning that the latch board had to be positioned properly when it was re-installed. 

I had to replaced the plastic cradle (holder locker) that holds the three door switches. Also, the interlock switch did not ever close. I Ohmed it out and it was always open. Lastly, there was a grease or some kind of junk in one of the quick connectors for a switch that would not make a good contact. I replaced the quick connector with one I had on hand. The machine is now good as new. Thank you for having drawings and parts and quick shipping. I will call upon you again as I have for many other repairs here at home. You folks are providing a good service.