How to Troubleshoot & Replace Ge AP3185407 / WR55X10025 Refrigerator Temperature Sensor

Ice auger was replaced first and worked for 3 weeks. I then researched problem of freezing produce and temperature not staying at set temperature. I then replaced the damper assembly which was broken. that correct the fridge problem. Then the freezer compartment began frosting up and I had a clicking noise every time the unit started to run. After researching the site again I decided to replace the defrost heater, fan and the other 2 sensors as the freezer would be completely disassembled and the cost was nominal to do all scenarios. The heater was burnt out totally. When I had the unit reassembled and running again after days of operational proof my unit is operating just as it was the day I purchased it. All my problems are gone. No more frost, dispenses ice, temperature stays steady where it is set, no clicking noise and the fan is much quieter. Cost was around $275.00 for everything and I am willing to bet I can get another 16 years of service from my unit. I did receive 1 incorrect part which I need to return. Other than that I swear by Appliance Parts .com 

Had to replace the water tank assembly (AP3189633) and all three temp sensors (AP3185407) in the unit; one on top, one in the middle and the one in the quick chill (bottom) area. Although some may have been working properly, I decided to replace all three to be sure, cheaper than calling a repair man. You may all require two union connectors (5/16"), part number AP3414915 if this is the first time repair the tank. Don't forget a six pack of beer, makes the job go easier. 

I checked many sites till I got to AppliancePartsPros.com checked the do it your self videos purchased the condenser heater and installed it my self folowing the instructions, my refrigerator did not started working right away and after a day is still not working, so, I ordered the teperature sensor and the defrost limit thermostat, by then I had no put my refrigerator parts all back together, I desided to put the back panel back and everything the way it was and wait for the new parts. Right before I receive the new thermostat and sensor I found out that my refrigerator is already working fine, I think I had to put all back together as soon as I installed the new condenser heater for my refrigerator to start working properly, even though I don't need the new sensor and thermostat anymore I will keep them just in case, my refrigerator is now working great - Thank you 

My GE Profile Model PSS26PSTASS freezes food in the food section. The sensor was shot - so the fan on the bottom of the fridge would constantly run - ice was forming in the fridge and my water filter was freezing. I went away for a few days and it was shattered from freezing up. Sensor is located behind the oval vent on the left wall of the fridge. between the 2nd and 3rd shelf. Unplug fridge - Pop off the white cover with a screwdriver - pull out the wires, clip the wires & strip them. Remove the foil cover from the back of the sensor, and pull out the old sensor. Replace the sensor and replace foil cover (I bought a new one). splice the new and old wires together using small blue wire nuts (you can fill them with silicone if you want to prevent moisture). stuff the wires back into the hole and replace the cover with the new sensor in it. 

After checking the defrost heater to confirm it was ok. I replaced the main electronic board. That wasn't it. After 1 1/2 weeks, it frosted up again. I called and talked to a tech person at APP and then ordered the air tower, defroster thermostat, and temp sensor. I installed them all and the frig works great. I know replacing all those parts at once didn't confirm which one failed, but I just wanted it fixed. The cost was less than having a service call. The parts arrived the day after ordering them. Thanks, Appliance Parts Pros! 

Found that Evaporator fan had failed, without the fan to circulate any air around the coil, the defrost stat was kicking in the defrost heater. Without circulation from the broken fan, the bottom of the evap coils became warm, while the upper portion remained frozen over allowing the defrost heater stat to remain closed. The defrost heater element finally failed from remaining on for an extended period of time. Ordered a replacement evap fan, defrost stat, thermistor, and defrost element. Parts came super fast. Problem solved in less than an hour from opening package. I have always had excellent service with APP. 

After talking to one of your specialists, I replaced the defrost thermostat. Still the same problem. Then I watched a video, which shoed how to check the fresh food thermistor, which was still the old style, but checked OK. The next thing I checked was the freezer thermistor, that is located in a side by side fridge on the bottom left corner above the pullout drawer. It was also the old stile, so I replaced it with a new one. so far it is still working after about 3 weeks. If the fridge is build before 2005, the best bet would be, to replace all of the thermistors, it saves a lot of frustration! Good luck!! 

Replaced all temperature sensors, damper, and the thermistor (all probably were not needed but I was not exactly sure the issue, but I knew my heater, compressor, and the evaporator fan were all working correctly). 

I watched the videos and ordered the parts to fix the problem. Then I installed them and so far everything seems to work ok. It's only been a few days so we'll see if I got it right. 

First I taped up the opening on the "broken" Damper until the new Damper Assembly arrived. That stopped the refrigerator side from dropping below 32. I ordered the part Friday am and it arrived Saturday pm. My model refrigerator was "slightly" more work than the video shows. After getting the new damper installed, the refrigerator was working perfectly again. Looking at the old damper I could see that the plastic damper door had broken loose from its mount on the motor that drives it open and close.