Jeremy August 26, 2025 for Model Number GSE25HMHBHES I am having to replace a broke wire leading to FZ thermistor (P-3). What gauge wire should I use to connect thermistor (WR55X10025)?
1 Answer Hello Jeremy, thanks for contacting AppliancePartsPros.com The manufacturer has not supplied us with those specifications of the wiring in this unit. Read More...
Tracy July 16, 2025 for Model Number GSS25GSHECSS Bought used GE fridge off marketplace for my garage. Freezer display is set at 0 but display reaches 6. Refrigerator is set to 34 but display won’t go below 49-50. Not sure what the problem could be. Is it the temperature sensor, or some kind of fan? When I open the fridge and step on the light to simulate the door is shut I expected the fan to come on thinking the door was shut but I don’t hear the fan on in the fridge. But I don’t know where I should be looking for that? What do you suggest?
1 Answer Hello Tracy and thank you for your question. It would be recommended that the temperature inside of the refrigerator and the freezer be verified using a thermometer. This can help identify if the failure is a communication issue where the displayed temperature is wrong, or if it is a cooling failure due to a failed thermistor WR55X10025 or control WR55X40445. Read More...
Sean June 28, 2025 for Model Number cfe29tsdcss Fridge temp is much colder (30%) than the displayed temperature and set temperature (37%).
1 Answer Hello Sean, thank you for contacting AppliancePartsPros.com This might be an issue with the temperature sensor WR55X10025 in the fresh food section. This can be tested for resistance by placing the thermistor in a glass of ice water and allowing it to sit for about 5 minutes and then taking a reading, at 32F it should read about 16.3k ohms. If the temperature sensor is reading correctly you may have a control board WR55X46805 issue or something else going on. Read More...
Shane June 20, 2025 for Model Number gse25hmhbhes Freezer temp displays -9 but temp inside is around 15. How can I test the temperature sensor at the control panel / main board? Unfortunately I do not have a wiring schematic so I'm not sure which pins to test from.
1 Answer Hello Shane and thank you for your question. The freezer thermistor WR55X10025 can be tested for resistance using the wires found on the main control connection J1. From the blue wire at pin 3 to the red/white wire at pin 5, there should be a resistance around 21K Ohms at 23 degrees, 27K Ohms at 15 degrees, and 36K Ohms at 5 degrees. Read More...
Jeannie August 17, 2024 for Model Number PLRU1778ES last week refrigerator froze some items for a day or two then this week I opened refrigerator which was warming. I cleaned coils, unplugged it and waited and replugged it in. The compressor was kicked on and was hot to the touch. The refrigerator never cooled down only got warmer. Therefore, I have my commercial Frigidaire refrigerator purchased in 2008 not cooling at all.
1 Answer Jeannie, as the compressor is operating, the condenser fan and evaporator fan would need to be inspected for proper operation if the evaporator and condenser coils are in good condition. The evaporator should have a light snow coating the entire coil within 30 minutes of compressor operation. If a fan is not operating, it would need to be tested for voltage to identify if it is receiving proper voltage or not. If the particular fan is receiving proper voltage and is not operating, the fan motor in question has failed. Read More...
Dtyagi August 14, 2024 for Model Number GSS25JETABB Every couple of years I have this repeated problem with my Side-by-Side GE GSS25JETABB refrigerator. I do not have any frost build-up when this happens and the defrost heater was replaced 4 years ago. Symptoms: a. Out of the blue one day I will notice that refrigerator side is warm (about 40 to 45F). b. When I check the freezer, it is almost near freezing (32F) and I can see water drops on the food containers in there c. Thinking it might be dust build-up in the back, I will unplug and clean the condenser area in the rear d. After I plug the refrigerator back in, it starts to work "normally" But the issue I continue to see is that the freezer is too cold. Even with the setting of "2" (from 1-9 scale) , the freezer temp is about -6 to -8 F. And the refrigerator is running a LOT more but I have no frost build-up. Has one of the thermistors gone bad or do I have a stuck defrost thermostat or is it something else? If it is a bad thermistor in the freezer, do I replace both or the main one near the evaporator coil? Thanks in advance
1 Answer Dtyagi, it would be recommended that the refrigerator and freezer thermistors WR55X10025 be tested for resistance from the main control WR55X10942C. With the power cord unplugged, the wires at connection J10 can be used. From the blue/white wire at pin 5, the freezer thermistor would be tested to the blue on white wire at pin 3 and the refrigerator thermistor to the yellow on white wire. The freezer thermistor should measure 40K to 50K Ohms (0 to -8 degrees) and the refrigerator thermistor should measure between 12K to 16K Ohms (41 to 32 degrees). If the thermistors test good, the failure would be in the main control. Read More...
Rob June 20, 2024 for Model Number ZISS480DXASS Updated with additional content providing a better understanding of the problem (bottom line, the answer provided does not match the problem as the temperature stays high for a number of days, I.e. it is not a defrosting cycle. Also, this did not use to happen). Any ideas are really welcomed as I’d like to fix this. Thanks again. Hello, I have a 15 year old GE ZISS480DXASS. The freezer ranges in temperature randomly from 3-17 degrees F on a regular basis. Once this high temperature is reached, the freezer stays at 14-18 degrees for days. Then can drop back down to around 5 degrees and stays there for another day or two, and then the same cycle occurs. Sometimes it happens on a cool day, sometimes on a hot day, sometimes it keeps at 3 degrees for days and sometimes in the same day it'll vary by 5-10 degrees. I have changed the temperature sensor in the freezer part but to no avail, the temperature still fluctuates. Any recommendations as to what I could try next? Thanks
1 Answer Rob, with the additional information in mind, the inverter control WR49X10283 would need to be tested for voltage during the state of failure while the fans are operating. The two larger wires should have 120VAC while the smaller wires should have between 5-12VDC. If the voltage is present but the compressor does not operate, the inverter would be the cause of failure. If the DC voltage is not present, the main control WR55X11070 would be the cause of failure. Read More...
Rob June 19, 2024 for Model Number ZISS480DXASS Hello, I have a 15 year old GE ZISS480DXASS. The freezer ranges in temperature randomly from 3-17 degrees F on a regular basis. Sometimes it happens on a cool day, sometimes on a hot day, sometimes it keeps at 3 degrees for days and sometimes in the same day it'll vary by 5-10 degrees. I have changed the temperature sensor in the freezer part but to no avail, the temperature still fluctuates. Any recommendations as to what I could try next? Thanks
1 Answer Rob, the temperature fluctuation could be occurring around a defrost cycle. If a defrost cycle has just occurred when the temperature is noticed, then this would be a normal range. The longest amount of time in between defrost cycles would be 60 hours (door not being opened at all during this time), where it will enter a defrost mode for 35 minutes. The more frequently a door is opened, there will be less time in between defrost cycles. Read More...
Ron May 31, 2024 for Model Number GFD28GBLETS I'm not sure if this matters but is there a specific wire gauge of butt connector that I should use when installing the replacement temperature sensor?
Ramon May 18, 2024 for Model Number PSS26SGRASS Replaced defrost heater (old was burnt), thermistor and top defrost thermostat several months ago. Seems to work fine for a little while. Then it started to behave erratically: couldn't set 0/37 temps,, it would go to Express Thaw by itself and could not stop that. Temps wouldn't go below around 15-20/45-50. Replaced MCB and erratic behavior solved, but still can't get temps below 15-25/45-50. Fans run well and heater OK (red hot) but big chunk of ice at freezer bottom; evaporator coil not covered with frost or ice when removed back panel. Cleaned out ice from freezer, but still can't get temps to 0/37. Can you help me? Ramon.
1 Answer Ramon, the temperature sensors WR55X10025 would need to be tested for resistance to identify if one or both has failed. With the power cord unplugged and the main control accessed, the sensors can be tested using the wires at connection J1. The freezer thermistor would be tested from the blue wire to the red with white stripe wire, the lower refrigerator thermistor from the blue wire to the yellow wire, and the upper refrigerator thermistor from the blue wire to the blue with red stripe wire. The freezer thermistor should measure 21K to 27K Ohms at the temperatures referenced and the refrigerator thermistors should measure between 10K to 12K Ohms. If the resistance of one is outside of the ranges provided, that specific thermistor has failed and can cause the cooling issue. Read More...