How to Troubleshoot & Replace Lg AP4651578 / 6750C-0004R Compressor Overload Protector

8 y/o LG unit was not cooling or freezing. There was a clicking on the back side every 2-3 minutes. Used these 2 issues in a internet search and top 2 cited problems were dirty coils then bad PTC & OLP. Tool off the back panel, compressor was quie hot. Coils did not look excessively dirty but cleaned them anyway. DId not resolve the problem. The OLP & PTC recommended for my unit. were different than the original TSD and I thought I would have to return the parts. However, I got on a chat with Nathan and he walked me through the wiring and gave me a lin to a video for installation instructions. I have to say I was skeptical since there were 3 connections on the new parts and only 2 on the old. Installed and connected wiring as Nathan had said and plugged the unti back in. Bingo! I also wanted to mention how fast shipping was. I order the parts standard delivery, late morning on a Wednesday, They were delivered by 10:30a the next day! 

For an emergency fix I installed a 3 in1 kit disabling the original start cap and wiring in the original run cap to the run winding. Ordered the proper PTC and overload from Appliance Parts Pros and installed them 2 weeks later. The original start and run capacitor were good, rewired back to design specs. The original PTC had pins 1,2 and 3, the replacement had 2,3 and 4. Only wiring change was to install the red wire from pin 1 on the original PTC to pin 4 on the new PTC. 

No one in my local area repairs LG refrigerators for some reason. I talked to a tech who doesn't repair LG but gave me good advice and said the PCB main board is probably bad. So I called appliancepartspros.com and ordered one. Came in the next day and fixed the problem. Save a ton of $$ because I was frustrated and was just going to be a new fridge. $225 fix good as new. 

Replaced the relay switch and overload switch. 

I did enough research to think the problem might be the compressor fan. When I took the back panel off that fan was OK, but I noticed a plastic case attached to the compressor was burned. Then I remembered my wife had been smelling something burnt for a few days. I called AppliancePartsPros.com and Kathy said "Is this the part?" which was a compressor overload switch. I didn't know, but sent her a photo. She put me on hold, check with a technician, who said I also needed a relay, which turned out to be exactly right. Changing those 2 burned parts following the videos for each part was EASY and would have taken only 15-30 minutes. However changing the burnt ends of the wiring challenging and I had to buy disconnects and a wire crimper ($20 at Home Depot; $4 at Tractor Supply). I probably should have called APP, but eventually figured it out. I couldn't find bent disconnects, so I used straight ones, but the case wouldn't fit. Since it was backordered I figured it was somewhat optional. 

Bought new capacitor, PTC relay, and overload protector from appliancepartspros, and the refrigeration came back to life. 

Ordered the correct relay and thermistor assembly. 

I Googled the problem and this website came up with an explanation of the problem along with possible solutions. I diagnosed the problem and ordered the parts. Installation was easy & the fridge was up and cooling in short order. 

I replaced the overload protector and the start relay. It was probably one or the other but I figured if one went bad the other was ready and I didn't want to tear it down twice for a few dollars saving. There are those that say to shake the parts and if they rattle they are bad. Well the new parts rattle too so that's a fallacy. But it works like a champ now. The start rely had 3 poles while the old relay only had one. There was a post online that said to just use the one terminal that was in the same position, just like the other two weren't there. That person was correct.