How to Troubleshoot & Replace Whirlpool AP6007561 / WP306604 Thermal Fuse

Replaced the thermostat and fuse it could have been either of them that was causing the issue - and now it works like a charm. 

Replaced gas valve coils.Piece of cake. 

Ordered several thermostats, very affordable, watched the do-it-yourself videos and replaced the old parts wih the new. 

My first thought was the heater coil. Since Appliance Parts Pros is my go-to for parts I ordered a heating coil, a high temp thermostat, and a fuse with examining first. When I opened it up I found one lead to the coil was burnt off and the other showed sign of heat at the terminal. I theorize that over the 35 years of use corrosion occurred at the crimp-on terminals going to the heating coil. As the corrosion increased the resistance at the terminals increased until it melted off one terminal and the other show sign of excessive heat. I replaced both terminal connectors with new well-crimped connectors and silver soldered for extra assurance. Should last another 35 years. 

I replaced the motor and the cutoff fuse. The videos on this site are extremely helpful and easy to follow. The only update needed to the motor drive video is the updated wire terminals on the new motor. I easily found the instructions online though. I also realized when putting the belt back on at the end, it is far easier to remove the spring and thread the belt through, then pull the wheel pulley down and attach the spring. 

Replaced thermal cutoff sensor. As found blower wheel was rounded out on the spindle. Blower wheel was not turning properly which caused a hot situation blowing the thermal cutoff. Replaced both and all works fine. 

I assumed the "Cut-Off-T" (Thermal Fuse on the vent line) was the problem. Although it didn't hurt to change it out after 21 years of use it was not the problem. Working from least expensive to most expensive (as a rule) the next step was the igniter. A quick chat with Danny and an even quicker delivery and I had my new igniter on hand. Unplugged the dryer. Removed two Phillips screws on the front panel of the dryer and loosened one 1/4" bolt holding the igniter to the gas tube. Detached the igniter at the harness, swapped out the old one for the new one. Reattached it to the harness. Plugged the dryer back in. Watched for the glow then in moments... flame on! Warm & toasty clothes from the dryer once again. Thinking of Buying Replacement Appliances instead? I dare you to find a perfectly working dryer for under $20. Not going to happen. 

Replaced the parts required on part order. 

I disassembled the dryer and discovered that the blower wheel had worn out and was just spinning on the spindle. Since I had the dryer disassembled, I tested most of the switches and the thermal cutoff fuse for continuity using a digital multimeter. They all tested good but I decided to replace the thermal fuse anyway. Also since I had the dryer disassembled I decided to replace the belt as well. I ordered a replacement blower wheel, thermal fuse and belt from Appliance Parts Pros. I chose upgraded shipping to expedite my receipt of parts. FedEx was delayed about 12 hours due to Covid-19 but I still received the parts within 60 hours of placing my order. Installing the new parts and reassembly of my Maytag gas dryer took about an hour and I’m happy to report that the dryer is back to working as it should. 

We were lucky to find a video on YouTube that was a perfect match to our old 1995 Maytag gas dryer. We were hesitant to do it ourselves but decided to give it a try. We checked the thermal fuse which was usually the culprit and it was bad. We looked at the igniter and it looked like it should be changed also. All in all, we decided to change the thermal fuse, igniter and the gas coils, was so happy that all these parts cost only $54 dollars and that included the shipping. The dryer is working like new again. You guys rock at Appliance Parts Pros!! :)