How to Troubleshoot & Replace Whirlpool AP6009347 / WP4391960 Dryer Heating Element

Reviewing the internet was able to reduce to 2 possible causes, the heating element or the Thermal fuse. Using the AppliancePartsPros.com site and support was a very straightforward and easy process to follow. 

Let me tell you, changing the heating element on my 32-year-old dryer has been quite the saga! However, now that I've done it once, it wasn't that bad after all. The problem was that I could not find any video ANYWHERE to guide me through how to remove the heating element on this particular model. Since I am not a repair expert by any stretch of the imagination, I need all of the help I can get! On this model, you have to remove the entire heater box in order to slide the heating element out. Fortunately, I found a channel on YouTube where the gentleman was more than helpful. Another problem was that there is a screw on the back of the heater box that affixes the element to the heater box/housing. This little screw is what took me so long to remove! I had to buy a 5/16' flat wrench in order to get it out. Otherwise, I could have made the repair in less than 15 minutes. The repair video on here was very helpful in terms of how to generally change the heating element.(If it wasn't for these excellent videos, I would not have been able to make any of the many repairs I have made on both my washer and dryer.) I'm giving this repair a "2" ONLY because of that pesky, small screw that is in an incredibly inaccessible location. The thermal cut-off kit was a breeze to replace (thanks to the videos on here)! 

I looked the part up on the website. They had it. I ordered it and payed for 2 day shipping. I got it in the expected time. I installed the part .it worked as intended 

Put in the heating element, thermal fuse, & a couple of other parts that was advised that I may need. 

Removed the rear cover and followed the recommended diagnosis of testing each of the thermostats and fuse unit until I found that the high-limit thermostat had failed. It had no continuity and a blackened terminal connection. I ordered a replacement high-limit thermostat and the heating element. Heating the element because I was thinking it might have caused the high-limit damage. I was surprised at the price of the high-limit thermostat part ($77.90), but after checking prices elsewhere AppliancePartsPros.com. price was correct for an original equipment manufacturer part and a few dollars lower than some other vendors. I received the parts the next day as we are in the same UPS zone as them! Note that the high-limit part is a different number (341222 vs 341195) and has a slightly different design than the original part. In my case, I needed to cut the female terminals off one of the connecting wires and install the male terminal which is provided in the bag with the new thermostat. Also of note, if you are changing the heating element, the video shows a later model dryer with a 2 piece duct. In this case, the element is easily removable with the dryer standing on the floor, If you have an earlier dryer with the single piece duct, you will need to tilt the dryer up on the front 2 feet, remove a single screw behind the element (difficult to get to) and pull the element out of the duct. 

We changed out the heating element. It was a perfect match and it fixed the problem. 

We ordered a new Heating Element and the Thermal Fuse. Watched the video that was recommended and changed everything out. Runs like a spotted leopard. 

Tested continuity of other related parts, Ordered the Dryer Heating Element on old Sears Kenmore- Whirlpool 

Replaced element. 

I ordered a new heating element because that is usually part of the problem, but when I went to replace it, the old element still tested good. I cleaned everything up and put it back together and still no joy. I noticed that the dryer was indeed heating up and properly running through its cycle, but the clothes wouldn't dry. Tore down to the blower fan and it had spun off the shaft because something was wedged in so while it physically turned on the shaft, it was not connected to the motor so it didn't move the air properly. I applied some blue Loctite to the motor shaft threads and spun the fan back onto the shaft (Left-hand threads) and put everything back together. and everything works perfectly again.