How to Troubleshoot & Replace Whirlpool AP6020066 / WPW10348269 Drain Pump

My discharge would not empty after a wash cycle and I always had gross gray water left in the bottom approx 3" deep? After doing the obvious things of checking the simp for garbage, and checking that the discharge hose wasn't blocked, I removed my discharge pump ( not too hard to do) and tested. My pump which did run and turn the impeller. However, the pump evidently had weakened with time and weakened and could no longer pump the waste water up hill to the "T" connection under the sink. A new $65 pump remedied the situation and saved me from buying a new $600 dishwasher! The install of the new pump took approximately 1 hour. The only tools required were some screwdrivers to remove the door panel (for working room) and the valance at the bottom of the machhine and remove a hose clamp; everything else came apart with locking plastic tabs. 

I replaced the pump drain. My assumption was that it was to weak. Whenever the dishwasher stop draining, I had to take a shop vacuum to clear to pump and the drain line, then it worked for a week or so, then repeat. Replacing the pump did not require any tools, or moving the dishwasher. (You will need a screw driver to remove the bottom panel - a flashlight might help too.) It was extremely easy, as long as you can lay on the floor to do the work. First make sure ALL the water is removed with a shop vacuum. Have some towels ready in any case. Disconnect the power from the washer (cut the breaker). Remove the bottom panel (two screws). The pump is centered right in front next to the water supply. Notice at the orientation of the pump and compare to the new. You will see which way to twist the pump to remove it. Reach in and twist the pump. It will then come loose from the mounting (no tools). Mop up any water. Un-clip the two wire plug and put the old pump aside. Move the new pump into position. Clip in the wire plug. Push the pump into place and twist in the opposite direction to lock snug into place. Turn on the power, and run the dishwasher and check for leaks. If all okay, position and screw bottom panel back in place. You're done! Now the new pump does have three bolt/screw holes, but on my dishwasher, the old one did not have them, so they are not used or required on my model. 

Removed and replaced drain pump, drain hose and check valve. Very easy job and especially with the videos on the web site. I've been telling all my friends how easy it was and sharing the web site address to help them in the future. Highest recommendation I can give for this company. 

After thinking about the problem, and not wanting to pull dishwasher out of the cabinet again. I examined the drain hose at the sink, and discovered it clogged. After removing the clog, and blowing on the hose, water started to drain. I am a happy camper now. Parts will be stored for next time. 

I looked on line and two items that they felt should be replace was the drain pump and the circulation motor. Our friend told me that since you got it apart, I should also replace the water inlet valve. I did all of these replacement part within 1 hour and put everything back. Now it works like brand new. It is very easy to replace those parts. 

At first I thought it was a clogged line but then I realized I did not hear the pump running when I selected the ‘drain’ option. Replacing the pump was very easy. I spent more time trying to put the dishwasher back in under the counter and correcting the insulation Than it took to replace the pump. Overall it took about an hour and about 15 minutes to replace the pump. 

I watched the video here and it looked pretty simple, so I ordered the pump and received it the next day for only $10 shipping. The repair went smooth as glass, just like the video and had it done in about thirty minutes. 

Bought a new sump/motor assembly to make it an easy swap out instead of buying just the motor. Assembly also came with a new diverter motor so I won't have to worry about having to go back in there if that failed. I also purchased new turbidity sensor and drain pump (which I found out had a small leak in addition to starting to fail) since I was already in there. The machine works like it's brand new now. 

I've had to repair this appliance before, and it's almost always the motor-pump that needs replacing. It's a pretty easy fix if you have a roll out dishwasher. All you have to do is flip the dishwasher on its back, unhook the pump (no tools required, just push down the locking tab and twist and disconnect the wiring), and plug in the new one. I noticed that the tub wasn't draining completely either, so I replaced the drain pump as well just to be on the safe side. If, as I did, you let this project sit for a while before getting around to it, you'll probably want to clean off the turbidity sensor and run a couple of cleaning cycles with it empty to make sure you clear the gunk. 

I have a 2010 dishwasher that is a TROOPER: gets things clean, and I can count on it. That said, the pump tends to go on a yearly basis. This is probably related to the fact that I don't load the dishwasher, my husband does, and he's indifferent to items that jam or damage the pump. Like glass and citrus seeds. I got to pick my battles, you see. After researching the current state of the appliance industry, I have opted to try to keep my old ones as long as possible. I noticed that the manufacturer has discontinued this pump. I got two more just to be safe. I am also keeping the old broken pumps to refurbish in the future. I did my own car repairs in the days of carbureted engines, so I will definitely try to rebuild a dead pump if I need to, down the road. I learned to change the pump by watching an appliance guy do it several years ago. Thank goodness I did. He's retired now, and no one else does repairs in our area. Takes me about 20 minutes of swearing on my belly in the kitchen with a flashlight and a screwdriver.