How to Troubleshoot & Replace Whirlpool AP6008717 / WP356427 Washer Transmission Shaft Seal

Just like the one's I have worked on for 30 years for Whirlpool. 

Purchased parts from your site and did a self repair. Excellent quality , speedy delivery and easy to install. Now our 13 year old washer works as good as new. 

Originally bought an off brand clutch from another site. Not sure if it was a bad part or bad install. It started leaking water a few months later and making a scratching noise. This time I ordered original parts from appliance parts pros: clutch and shaft/tub seals. The "how to" videos were extremely helpful. Now it runs quiet and dry. P.S. I tried using channel locks to remove the tub nut but ended up having to get the proper spanner wrench. 

Watched your great videos for transmission seal replacement and tub bearing replacement. We love this washer, bought in 2000, and I basically had to rebuild it. All new springs, skid plate sliders, changed the oil in gearcase, put in new agitator dogs, and a motor drive bushing. But I could not get the old bearings hammered out of the tub centerpost. I pulled out the inner tub and outer tub, pressure washed the old soap stains and grease out. Had a sledge hammer and penetrating oil. Finally damaged the tub center post, and ordered a new one. The 20-year old bearings would not budge before the welds broke under the hammer. APP had a new one to me the next day. My advice, don’t try to push out the bearings. The new post comes with all the new bearings already pressed into place, the top gasket comes too, in a separate baggy, but their sales team did not know this, I was told that I needed to buy the bearings with the center post. But they take returns up to a year later. No big deal. Now the machine is running, not leaking and our laundry is cleaner. But it took a week, working 3-4 hours a day including the pressure washing and trying to pound out the old bearings. 

We initially thought the issue was the gasket at the base of the tub, but that ended up being okay. We replaced it just in case. In order to even get the agitator off, we had to drill through the agitator bolt. The thing had completely rusted through. inside that basket drive rod we could see that the seals were in poor shape, and the liquid sprayed at the top of the shaft was getting through. We assume this was how the water was getting dirty. We replaced both shaft seals (which meant also replacing the oil in the transmission), the upper transmission shaft seal, the tub gasket (just in case), and the agitator bolt we had to drill through. I recommend buying several of the shaft seals and upper transmission shaft seals- the fit is tight and they're very easy to damage. Double-check the shaft before you try to put them in too- our shaft had some damage and the gouges inside the shaft were keeping the seals from seating properly. We were able to use a razor blade to scrap it clean enough to go in. 

Replaced neutral assembly pack shaft seal and thrust bearing works like new 

After checking coupler, clutch and other parts, I rebuilt the transmission using neutral assembly pack. The repair is straightforward but messy since the transmission is full of gear oil (I used new 80-90w oil after cleaning out the transmission with solvent). Don't forget blue silicone for the transmission case to prevent oil from leaking. 

Replaced the transmission shaft seals. 

I installed all the necessary parts that I received from you and it works great, now. I received the parts in good time without overnighting them. I had the whole washing machine apart and went through it all before ordering parts. Tear down and assembly was easy. I just took my time. The washer is 17 years old and was well built. It was worth it compared to what is on the market today, and cheaper. 

Just follow the directions step by step. I installed each one at the time. Was not complicated.