How to Troubleshoot & Replace Whirlpool AP4087111 / 700855K Cooktop Burner Switch Kit

1) I installed 4 ea new Whirlpool 700855K switches. (The old switches had INF-240P-871 stamped on them. 700855K was the cross-referenced P/N.) The installation was easy. There is slight difference in the terminal arrangement: 1) the old switch has raised terminals whereas the new switch has recessed terminals (for safety), and 2) the terminal markings are slightly different: The old switch has L1/L2/P/H1/H2 (5 terminals). The new switch has L1/L2/P/HC/H1(Also five terminals. I saw where one poster said there were 6 terminals on the new switch vs 5 on the old. There are indeed 6 male spade terminals on the new switch, but the terminal for L1 has two spades jumped together; thus only one terminal for L1. Only one of the spades needs to be used.) The connection is as follows (old to new): L1 to L1, L2 to L2, P to P, H1 to HC, and H2 to H1. I advise to 'tighten' the connections by very slightly crimping the female spades before pushing onto the switch male terminals. This will make a better connection. If the females are in bad shape they should be renewed. Mine were all OK, so I crimped a little as mentioned. After completion all 4 switches control their respective burners correctly. 2) I also replaced the four knobs w/ Whirlpool P/N WPY700854. The old knobs' numbers had worn off. They fit OK but slightly loose; I put a turn or two of aluminum foil on the switch shafts to give a tighter fit. Then they were fine. All in all a pretty easy job, and well worth it. The burners all work fine now. 

Simply plugged in the unit model (1960's era Jenn-Air), pulled up the schematics found switch, (ordered 2, because this was the first known failure in the unit and odds are another will go out). Part arrived, disconnected power to stove top. Unscrewed and removed knobs opened unit, pulled switch, replaced switch, replaced faceplate (2 screws) replaced knobs, turned on unit and started cooking again. (Note the new switch has a slightly different knob handle, the original knob was tight, but fit on the new switch.) 

Replaced all four switches. One of them had dangling terminals from over heating. Had to replace two wire terminals on the wire because of overheating. Couldn't tighten terminals because they weakened from the heat. so replaced them. Not a major job to replace. But you just change one wire at a time and there should be no problem. Special Thanks to Appliancepartspro.... They get the items right out to you quickly, (Next Day for me), and they were cheaper than my local appliance dealers. 

Easy; removed 4 screws beneath the control panel, and gently "lifted" the panel up & out being careful to not bend the upper retaining lip of the panel. Once out, the large nut is removed, and the wires replaced in the same location terminals. One thing; be careful of the burner indicator light mounted next to the switches. They are mounted very close and not held in place very well; the plastic mount is easy to break off the lens holder. Should this happen, you'll have to glue the red lens & light fixture in place, carefully align the bulb & lens. The lens actually holds the light fixture in place when new, but neither is made anymore. 

I ordered the switch from Appliance Pros. It came in about two days. Fit perfectly. Wife happy, which means I'm happy! Paul 

Replaced part 

Replaced the broken switch. 

Parts arrived within 24 hours. Discovered that spades were burned and making unreliable contact. No controller. Ordered correct parts second time around. Replaced grease filter and drip pans economically. 

Replaced the switch. 

Ordered replacement switch and simply kept track of wiring--made a diagram of what connector went where.